CATLYN VOYAGE

Yosemite, John Muir and Marco.

2012-02-15T12:41:00.000-05:00

John Muir once wrote...

As long as I live, I'll hear
waterfalls and birds and
winds sing. I'll interpret the
rocks, learn the language of
flood, storm and the avalanche.
I'll acquaint myself with the
glaciers and wild gardens and
get as near the heart of the
world as I can.

And last night Marco wrote......

please go to his page...

Yosemite!

2012-02-15T03:00:00.007-05:00

I thought I left behind something so spectacularly special, to only reach Yosemite National Park! We left Sequoia and enjoyed the little towns. All the little towns were touched by the rush to find gold many years ago. And here we were, on our way to find our gold! We entered the Park at Wawona entrance. All around us were Sequioa trees, but not us big as the ones we saw in the Sequoia National Park.

We popped into the Badger Pass Ski Resort, and the boys were disappointed not being able to ski again.
We slowly went down into the valley, and even that was done very carefully. I am sure Johan was happy to get rid of us for a while, to take a couple of deep breaths, and dropped us at some trails. We loved the Bridalveil Falls on our way down to the Yosemite village, and I told them about the Indian belief that the fall is haunted, because it caused the death of a young girl. I told them about the two rock climbers who recently climbed the fall, only to experience the mysterious forces of the water changing direction swirling over them and nearly drowning one of them!

Yosemite Valley with the Bridalveil Falls to the right

We enjoyed the meadows, and the trail to the 5th highest waterfall in the world, the Yosemite Fall, and stood amazed to witness the glacial erosion of many many, years ago.

Marco, always on the look out for sticks and stones found his stick in the meadow, playing in the grass. I foud a little lodge hidden against the granite rocks, the Sierra Club leConte Memorial Lodge, and I promised myself to return to share this beauty again with Johan in this quaint grey lodge.

Walking Trial to Yosemite Falls

Johan was a concerned man! He saw the white puffy clouds high up the mountains, as if he is still sailing and watching the weather! But alas! His concerns wasn`t unnessesary, the Visitor Centre informed him that they were expecting rain and snow tonight with wind and more snow the next day! What do we know about driving a RV on a snowy icy road? All of a sudden we saw signs of snow chains on wheels, and started worrying. When we reached the camp site Joe went over to a couple that looked like locals in a tent. If they can be here with a tent...Around our camp fire Alfred and Irma assured us that even if it snows the roads are ploughed clean within a day or two, so we need not worry. Joe and I went to look for a Ranger for a double check, and found Jim, who also assured us, that we will be ok if the roads are scraped.

So we heated a bottle of wine and enjoyed the moment of looking forward to our first snow falling from the sky! Marco was extatic!
That is when I found out about the Bears! On the Rangers little office wall I saw photos taken of the Black Bear ripping open cooler boxes, a Black Bear inside a truck trying to get to the smell of food! During 2011,
112 incidents were reported of seeing or contacting bears, and 17 were hit by traffic, luckily none was killed.

The boys enjoyed it when the two French girls came over, worried about the bears, having an excuse to go over to comfort them and to play cards!

Marco was proud bringing his daddy a little ice cube for his whiskey!

We fell asleep with the flip flop of snow coming down on us, and louder flops when they became too heavy for the branches of the trees. We woke up in white!

For the first time we didn`t have to threaten Joe and Marco out of their warm beds! They were outside playing, throwing, tasting, smelling and Marco examined the snow flakes under his microscope, his gift from Richard and Jennifer in NZ.

Alfred and Irma, the morning after

Jim and the boys

We were in a paradise of white! We walked around with our feet sinking in the snow, making little crunching noises, and when the Ranger, Jim saw us, he just smiled. "We ordered just enough snow last night for you guys" he said, while looking at my bare hands, and in his office he found two pairs of gloves for Johan and me!

The Visitor Centre was showing a movie about Yosemite, and how it was formed, and we sat in the theatre with goose flesh, watching the glacial miracle taking place.

Outside we walked around the Indian Village, and saw the sweat room where they saunaed before a hunt to strengthen them, we saw the round building for special ceremonies, and relived a little bit of their lives in their tents.

The white clouds were thick and heavy above and every now and then the snow came down. We left our snow man at the foot of the Yosemite Falls, and knew it was time to go!

One last stop, just to look at another waterfall (Cascades). Marco stayed in the RV, and Johan and I only climbed over the rocks for a little while to get a good view. Joe had to get closer for a good photo! He left us behind, slowly making our way back for a hot cup of coffee. I asked him if I could share this with you...

He climbed over the rocks and close to the foot of the fall, a big rock too high to climb was right in front of him. He positioned his camera, because he knew he wouldn`t be able to go any further. While taking a video he saw the faint shadowy figure of a women, but as soon as he peeked over the camera lens, there was nothing. He could see the figure moving slowly towards him, but when it started to rain he knew that it was time to go back. Check out the video when he publish it soon. When we did afterwards, we could actually see three figures moving slowly...

Sequoia`s Big Trees

2012-02-14T23:15:00.001-05:00

We drove the snaky road with our Beast to Sequoia National Park after sunset, and the road felt narrow and the cliffs steep and too close! We reached the RV park in the National Park, paid our fee at the station, by leaving your name and the money in a little brown envelope( trust people…no one checking on you), ready for the Big Trees tomorrow! Next to our campsite we saw these huge steel lockers and bins, with scary warning signs about Big Bears! ‘Ha Ha!’ we thought.

After a wishy washy evening in the RV, when we only found some cold water in the restrooms, we slept well, to wake up to the only wild life in the Park, mule deer and grey squirrels. After coffee, we did the big dump at the dump station, making sure our Beast is a little lighter for the slippery snow! The Beast was behaving beautifully around all the sharp curves. No RV`s bigger than 22 ft were allowed past Hospital Rock. We just made it with our 21 ft, but trust me we still felt too big around certain corners! What we didn`t know, was that roadworks were laying ahead of us, and trying too squeeze through as thinly as possible gave us a couple of nervous moments. The beast was climbing the steep mountains.

It is so sad to think that these unbelievable beautiful trees were chopped down for pencils and grape stakes, until a man, John Muir walked among them coincidently looking for his cattle and realized that something has to be done to save these creatures.

We drove while the snow was falling, enveloping us in a new spooky world with magic all around us. It was just us, our Beast and these huge Giants keeping an eye.

I wish I could describe these trees to you, and I hope the photos will do a better job. Joe climbed into one of them totally disappearing.

We saw them scarred by fires and felt the pain they must have suffered, but then we learnt that they needed the fire to help their seeds propagate into new little trees. Even if they fell down, they are protected by tannins to keep them laying down for hundreds of years before they will allow an animal or fungi to feast on them.

We got lost on the trails, because we wanted to, we couldn`t stop loving it among the white of the snow and the overpowering wonderfulness of the trees.

I circled the General Sherman Tree, the largest living tree in the world! It weighs approximately 2,7 million tons and is believed to be 2 100 years old! Three times I circled this miracle, once for our Universe, second for all the people who touched my life and whom I touched, and the third time for my dearest friends and my wonderful family and my five children and my Johan….

We left a little piece of ourselves among these magical Giants, driving to Oakhurst, and slept next to the river, Fresno, in the High Sierra RV Park, with no hot showers! At least I had the heat of the trees filling my spirit still….

Death Valley

2012-02-14T06:36:00.002-05:00

We left Las Vegas with Las Vegas…. and were heading for the Death Valley!

We enjoyed the humanly pleasures for a while, only to escape to Death! We found a spot in the campsite, with no hook ups, for 12US$. The park is exactly as the name says….death around you in the extremes shouted by the rocks. It is the hottest, driest lowest National Park in USA. It only comes alive in the colors playing in the sand. It shouts tales of cataclysmic forces who fought a battle against the ongoing erosion.

The Badwater was our first stop, and we walked on the salty lake, listening to the crust of salt under our shoes.

It was named Badwater, because the people were so happy seeing the lake, only to find out that the water is salty. They wrote the word, bad water on their maps, searching for fresh water for their donkeys. The little bit of water we saw, is ancient water, seeping through the foot of the mountains faraway icy places.

See the reflection of the mountain in the water !!!

Of course there has to be gold, and people started scraping borax-rich crystals from the valley floor. What is left of that era is the wagons drawn by 2o mules, and eventually replaced by the tractors, and the ruins of the boilers to boil down the borax, and the huge tanks where the borax crystalised.

It is a good place to see, a drive through of one day is enough.

LAS VEGAS !!!!!

2012-02-13T20:49:00.003-05:00

Zion National Park, Utah.

2012-02-12T02:11:00.001-05:00

Frozen River outside Kanab, Utah

We travel through expanses of arid open spaces, mountains, plateaus and vistas, everything in one day. We drove through the scenic park, paid 85US$, the annual park fee, to visit all the parks, instead of 25US$ per park. The Ranger gave us credit for the already paid 25US$ at Grant Canyon and show us that we can pass on the card to somebody else if we sign only one of the two signature places on the card.

Because we drove this big RV, we were escorted by a Ranger through the two tunnels, because all the traffic has to wait for an RV to go through a tunnel.

The Grand Canyon was impressive, but Zion is unforgettable. Huge brown and pink and orange with a touch of green mountains, towered above us, weathered away in formations unknown to us.

The mule deer and white tail roamed the mountains on the lookout for the nutritious rice grass. Like the Colorado River is carving away a story in the Grand Canyon, the Virgin River is carving away the mountains of Zion. We parked close by the walking trails, after not being able to walk the walk in the Grand Canyon. It wasn`t so cold and we could enjoy the beauty. My feet just started jogging and soon I was flying with the cold air burning my lungs. Nothing could stop me from running and running through this beautiful place with the mountains on my one side and the river on the other.

We went on the Emerald Pools walk, high up in the mountains for about 8km and ended the day with the Grotto trail for another 2km.

The water in the pools were a greenish blue, because of the minerals in the water. The lowest pool still had a waterfall, but the other two pools only had a little water seeping through the rocks.

We slept in the Park, next to the river, ending the day with the electronic Monopoly Carole gave Marco in New Zealand. Did you know this Monopoly has credit cards and electronic transfer of your money!

We left Zion way too soon, and could definitely spend another day in this park. We stopped at the little town outside the park, Springdale to admire all the prospectors` gems, exhibited on tables for passersby. We learnt about geodes and the little crystals inside.

We stopped at Laverkin, at the shop, Farmers Market, and bought too much sweet stuff, cinnamon buns and doughnuts and good stuff to ease the cold.

Somewhere along the scenic road we left Utah, and we entered Nevada! Excitement was building up in our RV again for our next destination!

Las Vegas.

The Grand Canyon Galore…

2012-02-09T10:14:00.002-05:00

People said, it is just a big hole in the ground, people said it is amazing….me? I had to see one of the Wonders of the World!

And I am sitting here trying to think how to tell you, thinking about going to get a dictionary to get new words to describe what I saw and what I felt today, walking the rim of the Grand Canyon. It was icy cold with a wind cutting through our layers of all the clothes we got, but not even that could dampen the beauty.

Our day started with paying the entrance fee for a vehicle of 25US$, parking the RV at a marked spot and then enjoying a movie about the Canyon at the Visitors Centre. We wanted to do a trail, and tried the Bright Angel, but the trail was frozen over and slippery for the first two miles down. The first skinny Chinese trying to go down landed on his butt, so we decided rather to stay. One slip for mankind....

Hopi House

We visited the Hopi House, with the little basket hanging in the door way. Johan left all his worries and sorrows in the basket before he entered the house, and while he was there the little silver bells helped all his sorrows blow away, and when he exit the house the basket was empty.

When I go home, I will hang a little basket for you, for when you come to visit me, you can empty your sorrows in my basket…

Never before were hot dogs so tasty than the ones we had in the restaurant. A fire place was burning and it was nice and cozy.

After lunch we took a shuttle to see if we can walk the Kaibab trail down the Canyon,

but we were despondent when we met hikers just completed their hike after overnighting in the valley, geared with walking poles and metal traction under their walking boots. The trail is full of ice, and the cliffs are too close, just a slip of the foot… So with our ‘running shoes’ on, we decided that we have to come back one day, and I would love to come and stay deep down in the canyon for two days! We overnight in the RV Park, just outside the park, in the snow! It was a challenge to take The Walk to the restrooms in the early morning hours.

Marco didn`t feel the cold at all. He played in the snow, made balls, threw Joe with it, kicked the ice and,

and… It was Johan who was freezing and who was trying to find a sheltered spot in the sun.

Too soon it was time to go, and we enjoyed the shuttle cruising slowly around the rim route, dropping us at scenic spots until we reached our wheels.

We left the huge Canyon but still enjoyed the beautiful drive around the Canyon, visiting the Watch Tower, with a great view in Navajo style.

All the time Marco was looking out for the Condor!

This majestic protected bird with a wing span of 9ft and 6 inches was waiting for him at the Navajo bridge, playing underneath the bridge, giving him a show, while spreading those huge black wings! Thank you, thank you, thank you….

Seductive Sedona !

2012-02-08T03:10:00.002-05:00

I am so glad Nick and Sandy told us over a good bottle of wine about this special place! Sedona is often called ‘Red Rock Country’ and it is exactly what you see and breathe. The incredible array of colors enchants you all the way. Apparently the ranges of red are a result of the iron oxide in water seeping through the sandstone formations.

We arrived late afternoon, and frantically we tried to explore as many of the little shops we could. It is a paradise of psychics, spiritual retreats, health spas and a touch of the Indian legacy available to you! Red ‘chile’ (chilies) strung in ristas hang in the markets,

while the wooden carved statues of Indians invite you into all the places. These statues were used by the Indians many years ago, to let foreigners know that they are willing to trade!

We walked up to the Chapel of the Holy Cross, built as part of the rocks, and inside I lit a candle for my daughter, with a prayer of wisdom, love and peace…

We followed the colorful little blue and yellow flags, to Amitabha Stupa, and walked three times clockwise around the Stupa, with a prayer in our hearts for our world, our people our friends our family, our children and a prayer for ourselves.

We stopped at Kachina house, www.kachinahouse.com a distributer of Native American Art and Artefacts.

The shop lady took the time and took us through the whole store telling us about all the different kinds of tribes and their own style of art. Never again will Indian art just be art again. I loved the Horsehair pottery, where horse hair is baked into the clay. I loved the little dolls, made for the Indian children, and the grandmother with her rosy cheeks ruling the family! I`ve got the rosy cheeks, so watch it, family!

We ended the wonderful time in Sedona sleeping in the Rancho Sedona RV Park, next to the river, feeling special being able to spend time in this special place!

Joe wrote a poem, inspired by the Indian and the eagle in bronze! Visit the Poems page for that....

Route 66

2012-02-05T10:23:00.002-05:00

Infront of the Barber Shop in Seligman

We weren`t on our Harley, wearing our leathers, but with our lumpy RV we enjoyed a part of the Historic Route 66 from Kingman, the heart of Route 66,

to Oatman, where the not so wild burros and the Cowboys still walk free.

Burros of Oatman

On our way Johan`s foot was just too heavy on the gas, and we glimpsed the first little town, Hackberry, without stopping. We weren`t impressed by him, so he promised to lighten his foot!

Peach Springs

Peach Springs was worth a stop, although all the shops were closed. I enjoyed the Arizona Jail, and could see the drunkard sitting in the corner of this contraption!

The little town Seligman was beautiful even in the cold, and Elvis had to share his girlfriend with Joe.

It is an absolute paradise for bikers, and the shops have so many interesting things for them and their bikes. We found the shops more expensive for the same curious than in Kingman and Oatman. The legendary Barber shop, is equipped now with fresh brewing coffee, and we warmed our hands around the cups.

I can understand why Seligman, 5200ft above sea level, is the birthplace for the Historic Route 66 Association of Arizona.

From here on we could see patches of white snow in the forest, and the excitement grew in the RV! Marco just want to feel soft fluffy snow, and not the hard ice we did before.

While we were driving soft white flakes landed on our windscreen, and Marco wanted to catch one to put under his new microscope(the gift from Richard and Jennifer) to see whether he could see the spectacular formations he only saw on photos. But before we could get it onto his little glass, it melted into nothing.
We slowly drove passed Williams, the gateway to the Grand Canyon, which was a little picture covered in snow. We saw people trying to clear up their drive ways, we saw cars covered in snow.

Flagstaff was the next stop at 6900ft, and by this time the heater in the RV was full blast. We were heading for the shops! I found a thick knee lenght 'ugly' cardigan, and the rest found some tackies! We were ready with another layer of fabric against the cold!
But no cold or snow could dampen our spirits, we were on our way to one of the Worlds Wonders with a stop over in Sedona!

Oatman, a real Cowboy town!

2012-02-04T18:35:00.000-05:00

We didn`t get enough of each other, and we decided to stay another day with Nick and Sandy, and Marco was delighted to have a little bit more time with Luke! Sandy was chopping and changing our traveling plans with Johan investigating the map. Luke wanted to take Marco with to his school, but it is America! Who`s going to be responsible for this kid? So Luke and Emily had to go to school, while Nick and Sandy took us to Oatman.
We bundled into their car, and were off to Oatman, the Cowboy Town! What an experience it was. Looking down the slopes, Nick helped us to imagine legendary John Wayne on horseback…

Marco got some donkey food from Sandy, but the bank robber saw him carrying the brown bag, and he was held up at gun point by a bank robber. And I thought South-Africa is dangerous!

It is a real old cowboy town, with men dressed up as cowboys, and donkeys roaming the streets, and salloons with cold beer waiting for us.

The shops are a treat, and this being a part of the historic Route 66, a very popular tourist attraction.

We wittnessed a bank robbery, and a shoot out right there in the street, and two dead cowboys dropping down!

I snooped around all the interesting shops, with Indian craft and jewelry. I found a pair of earrings made by Yellowhammer. He lost a bit of his finger, bitten of by his Navajo wife. Marco found dream catchers for himself and Luke and Emily. We joined in the saloon for a beer and lunch...

The saloon was covered in real dollar notes signed by visitors, and Joe and Marco stapled one to the door in our memory!

We drove off with the donkeys still looking for a nibble in the car…

We said good bye again to friends, but we knew we will be seeing them sometime soon, when Sandy will be a skipper on Catlyn!

New friends in Kingman!

2012-02-03T10:58:00.002-05:00

Excitement filled our home! Today we are going to meet friends of very dear friends! Nick and Sandy with Luke and Emily left South-Africa almost ten years ago, and with it they left great friends, and now we are taking hugs and kisses from them to them...

We enjoyed the older part of the town, with the Power House and the thrift stores and antique shops.

Marco met an old man in his beautiful antique shop,

and when he asked curiously why Marco wasn`t in school, it was time for the long story. But he also had a lovely story to share. He was a soldier on a Submarine in 1958 to 1963, and soon showed Marco his old photographs. So good to share stories...

The time dragged passed but eventually it was 16h00, and we could go and meet our new friends! We met their lovely neighbour, Renna, and soon she had a RV parked in her garden.

She hooked us up, and the boys had electricity and internet, and Johan and I had the privilege to sleep in her guest house! Boy, did we enjoy that! Catlyn, our yacht is sparce on privacy but a motorhome...

The boys played Wii and pool, and Marco met his new friend, Luke. Poor Emily had to put up with the boys.

We all got together for dinner at Nick and Sandy, and were soon feasting on the salmon, Nick prepared in his special way. It is the first time I had fresh salmon like that, and I was so glad there was left overs. Renna, joined us with a special bottle of wine for the evening,

From Left : Sandy, Me and Renna

The wine is from an estate in Headsburg, California, in Sonoma country, called Raffaneli, Sinfadel. Apparently it is such an exclusive bottle of wine, that in order to get one, you have to write a letter, and then you will get onto the waiting list, and then you can purchase a bottle... Needless to say I tried very hard to sip it as slow as possible...it was really awesome! True to Nick's own words when inviting us after he read my posting about our bargain purchase of some red wine in Los Angeles, and our poverty barbeque: "Believe me I'm gonna bump it up a notch from Argentinian 2 buck chuck!!!".....and they surely did! My red wine taste buds are spoilt for ever!

We had an evening with so much laughter, with the American girl enjoying our South-African humor. Soon they were changing our traveling plans again...

The evening ended too soon with a 'baie d(o)nkie' (thank you) from us, and Renna laughing because she couldn`t understand these South-African people always calling each other, 'asses'!

ps. Just check out Nicks 'biltong' ( dried meet) in his own garage!

Proudly South African

Salton Sea and Parker Dam towards Kingman.

2012-02-02T23:20:00.003-05:00

Just before sunset we hooked up our RV at Salton Sea State Recreation Area, Mecca Beach. We were warned about the smell of dead fish sometimes, but not warned about the trains steaming behind us. There was a lot of sea gulls and stately pelicans and all kinds of geese and California quails, like the ones I saw in Auckland, on the lake.

Portions of the sand was strewn with dead fish, manely telapia, but no smell. Even when I picked one up, I couldn`t smell anything. Many species of fish are dying due to the increase in salinity of the sea.

We bought some fire wood and soon the fire was burning high, and we grilled chicken and proper corn dogs like the Americans.

We slept amazingly well, and only early morning did I hear a train, and exactly 07h00 one of them came passsed loudly, to make sure he woke someone up for work or school!

Salton Sea early morning

Parker Dam was the next stop, and we enjoyed the scenic route all the way there.The arid rocky terrain was so beautiful in a strange way with the green alongside the river.

The dam wall wasn`t so impressive, but apparently it is the deepest dam in the world.

The Colorado River impressed me! I know it is just another river, but all the songs dedicated to this river entrigued me.We passed the river and entered Arizona!

Next to the road at some Indian reservation, I fell in love with the most beautiful Indian doll. She was dressed in her suede moccassins and with her black braids, I decided to make space for her in my life and luggage! Who needs clothes?

Havasu Lake with the London Bridge was next. It was good to see because it was on our way, but it didn`t take my breath away. It was getting late and we found a RV park just down the road, Havasu Falls RV Resort.

This took my breath away. Not because it was so beautiful, but because of all the huge RV`s parked like sardines into this camp. Huge ones with pot plants, garden lights, woven carpets, and each with their own bill board introducing you to the owners of the RV, and a little dog, groomed to the tip of his tail.

The RV Park itself was extremely neat and tidy with a warm water pool at the Club house. We were having a good nights` rest before we go to Kingman tomorrow to meet friends of friends!

Joshua Tree & Palm Springs

2012-01-31T10:59:00.003-05:00

We battled to get the boys off their snow boards, but eventually they were ready for the next adventure!

No expectations! This is our motto since we started sailing Catlyn to places. And every time we were amazingly surprised! We entered the area of the Joshua Tree,

and this strange tree led us to our RV Park for the night. Lazy H was an absolute contrast to Malibu.

We were bundled among real trailers, with porcelain dogs in their drive ways, and trucks with flat tires, and faded floral curtains and the shower with no tap. But the water was warm and the bathroom clean, and the host all smiles…

We enjoyed the little town the next morning, popping into their Sky Village,

with hidden treasures among the trash, and I found the most beautiful necklace, with a Tibetian stone.

I left the dream catcher hanging, because no one wanted to try and slip it into our luggage.

Marco enjoyed our next stop at the Robotic Dinosaur Exhibit in Cabazon, searching in the sand for stones, and ending in the big mouth of the T-Rex, while we walked among the life sized dinosaurs imagining how the world was like, when they were roaming.

We drove through the streets of Palm Springs! It is exactly what it says, palms next to the streets, rows and rows of them. We were in an oasis in the desert, green with the waving palms, and we thought about Elvis, and Frank Sinatra and Bob Hope living here some time ago. It is still a paradise for the rich and the famous with the most beautiful little shops and café`s.

We were here for the hot springs! After the snow we soaked and defrosted in the hot tubs of Sam`s Spa and RV Resort.

A lovely park for the family, after we were turned down at a couple of Adult Parks, where you heat up your ‘whole’ body in the spa`s! Marco collected all the kids and made a good friend, Jarred who was there for the weekend with his grandparents.

I soaked up the heat, got the time to do the laundry quickly and we ended up with a new destination after meeting people in the tub, telling us about Salton Sea! An accountant Layla, a florist Gary and Eddy living close by shared their stories with us and we left them in the tub on our way again.

Snow boarding at Big Bear Mountain Resorts.

2012-01-29T10:51:00.001-05:00

We had two very excited boys in the RV. They were booked for snow board lessons at the Big Bear Mountain Resort, a whole four hours for the day! Dressed with three quarters of the clothes in their bags, they completed all the forms and Dad paid via internet to qualify for a discounted price.

Marco went to the Little Bears for little people learning to ski from 4 to 12 years.

Joe joined the group with the three beautiful girls, and I just hoped that he will concentrate on the thing on his feet as well.

I was amazed at how efficient the staff was, and even more impressed when I saw the visually and hearing impaired people, assisted by their guides enjoying the day skiing. Even paraplegic people are skiing, sharing in the snowy fun.

I know Joe is going to write a blog about his day, but although my poor feet were frozen, I could see them having the best day ever. Soon Marco was skiing down the slope, and Joe surprised me coming down a big one! The day flew past, and the two went up the lifts to higher slopes and like pro`s, they snow board down for a photo.

I watched young and old, very old skiing in this mountain, and I knew, I will do this some time too.

While we were parked at the foot of the mountain, our neighbours, Popco and Garcia assured us, that we were at the right place at the right time for a great time on the snow. The sun was shining and the icy cold wind burnt our faces and our lips. it was worse than the Caribbean sun!

Late afternoon we succeeded getting Joe and Marco out of their rented gear, and after a drink at the Beach Bar, yes can you believe it, far away from any beach, we were back in our RV, with the wet clothes on the dash board to our new destination!

Big Bear Lake, San Bernardino

2012-01-26T22:59:00.004-05:00

After sleeping on top for a change, we were off! Joe was navigating, thank God, and Marco and I were enjoying the scenery. We had to stop at a Wal Mart, not having those in SA. I wasn`t impressed though, compared to our Game.

We were heading east on the highway to an RV park somewhere in San Bernardino. With our big camper we drove high up the San Bernardino Mountains, they were spectacular! After about two hours of climbing the slopes to a height of 7000ft, we passed the romantic Running Springs to find our camp at Fawnskin, next to the Big Bear Lake. This is one of the three most sunniest places in the world, with 300 days of sunshine per year. But do not think it was a warm sunny day… The snow was white on the slopes and the cold was creeping closer! We overnight in Pine Tree RV Park, at the foot of the mountains.

I always said, I do not have any intention going to snowy places. I just do not like the stuffed animal feeling of the thick garb. I do not like to be cold! And when Richard and Jennifer told us they are on their way to a skiing holiday in Japan, I wasn`t the least jealous. After a very cold night in the camper, with Johan putting on the heater every now and then, and me searching for socks, I didn`t change my mind on cold snowy areas. But when we started driving down the road of Big Bear Lake with the snowy mountains surrounding us, and the frozen lake edging the town, something in me changed.

It is the most beautiful little town in the world, with the most beautiful log houses around the lake, and the snow is enveloping the pine trees high up the mountains. Many movies have been made in this little and town and mountains like City of Angels, Last of the Mohigans and I know what you did last summer, and many more.

We stopped next to the Lake, where the fishermen were trying for trout. A man told me that the flavor for the day was some orange stuff and purple stuff and garlic flavor, and he proudly showed me the four trout in his basket!

We spend some time at their shopping mall, with the same characteristic as the town. I would love to come back here one day…

Joe and Marco went to the Moonridge Zoo, and saw the Black Bear, Grizzly Bear, Bold Eagle and Timber Wolf, and the gigantic Wood Bison. It was good to see the animals, but they still found it depressing to see these animals locked up in the cages. The animals in this zoo are all ‘rescued’ from people who kept them as pets, or hurt in snares or somewhere in the wild. We also visited the Big Bear Discovery Centre, mentioned as one of the top things to do, but it was disappointing. Only a couple of poorly stuffed animals and a curious shop was on offer.

Ps. I think I was the only person on the slopes of the white snowy Bear Mountain with polka dot fabric shoes, snuggling in the snow. Carole and Jennifer, my girly friends from New Zealand, I needed some of your shoes desperately. This time without the heels...

Apollo Motorhome

2012-01-26T20:01:00.002-05:00

Johan and Joe drove in with this huge Apollo Motorhome! So much for our nomadic lifestyle! From our Yacht all over the Blue to the most beautiful house in Auckland to a big house on wheels, 8,5ft wide and 12ft high and five beds to sleep. Keeping a bed for Jaco, our son in Florida.

I nearly lost my breath when this huge motorhome entered the parking area for the hotel. But getting used to every day a new adventure in my life, I started packing and organize our stuff into this monster. Very slowly we entered the traffic, on the wrong side of the road as well, and I take my hat off to my Skipper, remembering port and starboard so quickly. The shopping was a delight, without having to get into a dinghy, getting wet and negiotiate foreign languages, we just parked in the parking area of a big chain Ralphs, and we could shop to our delight. The prices for a change was so reasonable. No more did we pay 1US$ an apple, but 1US$ for an one pound bag! Especially the frozen quick meals were so cheap, even better priced than in our own country, and I am not even going to mention the great quality. Believe it or not, I found red wine, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from Argentinia for less than 2US$!

Malibu is the place for us to be! We found a RV Camp, Malibu Beach RV Park,

and after a walk on the beach Joe found some charcoal for 6US$, and soon the T-bones were sizzling on the fire. The first proper T-bones since leaving South Africa for about 8US$ / kg. But it wasn`t all there was, Johan bought some maize meal in Ralphs, and we had real South-African ‘pap’ for dinner with a tomatoe salsa sauce. South African barbeque around the corner of Hollywood !!!!

The next day we spend driving down the famous Mullholland drive, and Marco was searching for celebrities all the way! Luckily some of the beautiful mansions were built high up the hills, so we could rub shoulders with the rich and the famous! So much for recession in the USA! I`ve never seen so many Mercedes, Porche or Corvettes in my life! Just picture our huge motorhome among these beautiful cars during pick up time at all the private schools along the way!

View down the valley from Mulholland Drive

We ended the day in Zuma Beach, and missed our country for a second. We drove home, only to swop beds with Joe, for a harder mattress, but it was on the top!

Zuma Beach on the South Pacific Highway

Los Angeles - Back in time

2012-01-24T19:42:00.000-05:00

We said good bye at the airport to Richard and Jennifer, sharing a beer and some sweet potatoes chips and beer butter chips, but with the knowing that we’ll see each other again soon.

Marco couldn`t wait to watch movies on the flight and soon we were on our way to Fiji with Air Pacific. What a friendly bunch of stewards! A couple of hours later we were on our way to Los Angeles! We are going to the USA, and we were so excited!

We lived one day twice! We boarded the plane 13h30 in Auckland, on the 21st of January 2012, and we landed in Los Angeles fifteen hours later, but still January 21, 2012 only three hours earlier! Time travel for you! Why is it that I felt so intimidated and overwhelmed? Immediately we were shoved into rows for Immigration, but the TV screens were showing us how people were searched and for what reasons, and which forms to complete and how important everything is. Maybe I got so used to the relaxed island style of things.

We got a taxi and were soon on our way to our hotel, a day too soon, but they were more than happy to see us! After a shower and a nap, Marco woke up ready for the new day. He couldn`t stop peeking through the window, not understanding why it is not yet morning at eleven o clock. Despondent he got back into bed to try and get some more sleep!

Los Angeles! We are ready for you! We got into the bus and enjoyed walking around Down Town.

We walked the jewelery and fashion district and ended up in Little Tokyo for a late lunch.

Tomorrow we will pick up our Motor home for a new adventure!

Good bye to New Zealand!

2012-01-20T17:03:00.001-05:00

Richard spoiling us with Champagne Breakfast

Time to say good bye again! But we leave with a song in our hearts, because we are taking a little bit with of every person we met. From Jennifer, a letter from the heart. From Richard, a dacari promise on Catlyn. From Hannah, their Spaniel, the tender love of a memory.

From Carole, The naughty laughter. From Peter, the sharing of a dream. From Koos and Ann, a family hug. From Cotland Lodge, the warmth of home in a far away land... Thank you to all!

We spend our last days just enjoying a home, but forced ourselves to drive a bit, and to enjoy the beautiful towns, and the green pastures and the volcanic black beaches.

One of the beaches in the Woodhill reserve

I ended up in the strawberry fields, loving the fresh strawberries.

But we had an appointment with Andando. Our last saying good bye! the reason for us being here. Peter invited all of us, and we spend the evening in her company. But Jennifer treated me on a pedicure,

because it was time to get me into high heels! I was honoured to wear her moms` sandals, feeling so femine for a change.

Carole brought a whole bag of shoes, and I tried them all on, and they landed all over Andando, smiling with the sweet sexy shoes all over her... thank you to all the special women in my life!

And thank you to all the men, just smiling on our silly fun.

Cotlands Lodge For Sale

2012-01-20T15:01:00.004-05:00

Joe created a website for Cotlands Lodge (that is the lovely house we lived in while here in New Zealand). You can visit the website at http://www.cotlandslodge.com/ and see below the promotional video he made of the property.

Safety on land?

2012-01-19T14:59:00.000-05:00

All my family and people were so scared for us leaving for the Big Blue, and tried to persuade us not to go look for trouble! It is not safe on the ocean, out there all by yourselve! the wind, the sea....

But we were not on land yet, or an old lady bumped into our borrowed car! Our beautiful Rover was skidding over the tar road, and she landed between the trees, on her way down a two meter slope! But luckily they all got out of their cars safe! Marco was shaken and ran home, and Johan kept the Police busy. What an efficient country. It was about 10 minutes, and the Police and Ambulance pitched, and the Municipality Truck came to clean the road of debris. About an hour later, Johan got a phone call from the Insurance confirming all the details!

Thank you, thank you, thank you...

A little bit of New Zealand.

2012-01-19T14:46:00.003-05:00

We had to force ourselves out of the house. It was soo good to wake up in a bed, after a good nights` rest, looking out into the garden with the sound of the water fountain. Maybe it was that little bit of water around us, to give us the final peace. Every one of us were just moving around in the house and garden, feeling the textures, smelling the earth and dying leaves, enjoying the space of being by yourselve...

But we had to see a little bit of New Zealand. We visited Johans` cousin and his Russian girl friend, and enjoyed seeing a relative after so long. And we went for a day trip, but we had to promise the boys that we won`t go too far, and will be back home soon. Wederholm Nature Park was beautiful, and we enjoyed walking the forest.

It is amazing how the walks and trails are so well maintained in all the places we`ve been to. It is absolutely a pleasue being a tourist in New Zealand.

The huge native wood pigeons were enjoying the walk with us. The energy of being is such a wonderful place soon crept into our bones, and I was chasing Marco down the hill! Maungatauhoro was the next park we explored! How do the people get used to these funny names? It is worse than Zulu!

We visited Tahwaranui Park, had lunch in Warkworth, and you won`t believe it, we had fish and chips! Did`t we have enough fish on the sea?

Matakana, the little town was beautiful, and the wine estates reminded me of the good old Cape. We ended the day in Leigh, and watched the people snorkel in the icy water! By now the boys were anxious to get home, and after visiting the Bee farm, watching the queen bee rule against the glass, and the workers carrying away the dead and cleaning the place, we headed home!

Johan and Marco ended the tough day on land in the hot bath!

A saying goodbye...

2012-01-16T15:58:00.000-05:00

My Rambo.

Today I put you to sleep

and I, just weep.

Far away in a far away land

my friend has to hold your hand.

Some time ago, I wrote my name in your ear,

to be, always close to you, so near,

and now with you on your way

leaving this world, not going to stay,

my name is still in your ear

close to you, still near,

and I will whisper in your ear.
I will wait for you...

I thank you for your years, my dog
in me, you earned your place
I`ll remember you, all over my face
my love, my dog!

Andando is on her own!

2012-01-15T15:09:00.000-05:00

We went back to Andando, just to say good bye. After we moored her safely, we started cleaning her, and we left Andando in Peters` hands, the beauty she is. I kissed her hull, thanking her for keeping us safe, and thanking her for sharing this wonderful experience with us. I think we left a little something of us in her, so that all the people sailing and enjoying her in future, will remember. May she have many stories to tell! Bless you, Andando, and happy sailing, Peter!

Living like normal people !

2012-01-15T04:29:00.007-05:00

Okay, what is normal?

For about three years busy with this boat thing, normal changed. We met two people, Jennifer and Richard, and they are the two angels in our lives.

Johan, Richard, Jennifer @ Cotlands Lodge (Their beautiful home)

We shared an evening with a glass of wine in Auckland at the Waterfront, and we shared our lives living on a boat, and we shared their dream to buy a Maverick 400 Catamaran to sail the world! They offered us their home, and they offered us their car, and soon I walked on soft carpets, got my nails dirty in a garden, ate radish out of a veggie garden and saw little rabbits on the lawn.

I was day walking, up and down the stairs, just exploring the space. I was looking out of the bedroom window over the forest, I was lying in the bath tub smelling the warmth of the rose petals. And this morning I put fresh flowers in a vase…And at night I fall asleep with the sound of the wind in the trees…. For a while this is normal to me!

And I thank you…

Need I tell you about Marco getting up early out of his deep bed, finding the lazy boy in front of the TV, as he surfs the Cable TV, until he gets a warm cup of hot chocolate.....and off course couldn't stay out of the heated pool.

And Joe enjoying the luxury of privacy for a young man, sitting at the pool enjoying his breakfast.

And Johan, sleeping without worrying, just dozing off, and cooking in the huge kitchen with the burners sizzling!

Every morning we think about exploring this beautiful country, but our world just exists around a house with a garden, a space to live,and a space to breathe!

Cotlands lodge is a 4 acre property close to Orewa Beach, Auckland.

PS.. Welcome to all our new followers!

My girly day!

2012-01-09T11:08:00.000-05:00

I caught myself fantasizing some times on the ocean! Fantasizing about my body being smoothed and feeling so soft. I imagined myself being pampered and sometimes I could smell the vanilla, the cinnamon and I could feel the warmth of the cloth being wrapped around me…. I imagined myself slipping on a pair of beautiful high heels stretching my calves, wearing a sleeky velvet dress, and my clean groomed hair falling over my shoulders…

And it all came true! I was ferried across the bay to Auckland. My stomach was filled with little butterflies. When was the last time, I left the boat without the rest of my family? When was the last time I used a credit card, and carried a handbag? When was the last time I sat across a girlfriend, talking about girly things and not sailing stuff? Will I remember how?

A silver sexy car was waiting for me on the other side, and Carole whisked me off for lunch! I could order a meal, and followed her, ordering a snapper. I decided to try the John Dory for my first time! Can you believe it? After so long at sea, eating a lot of fish, I ordered another fish! But it was delicious with little potatoes dripping with a green basil sauce.

After finishing our carafe of red wine, she took me to the Spa! When the white masked face stared at me, I knew that I was in for shear indulgence!

Fantasies are suppose to come true! I was scrubbed, and rubbed and oiled and foiled…two hours of touch! A female was born again… Carole, thank you for giving me, me…

Auckland

2012-01-09T10:59:00.000-05:00

We had shore power, and fresh water, and the hot water cylinder was boiling my water for a long shower! I thought we were going to be exhausted, but we hopped onto the ferry, heading for the CBD. The boys wanted to go to the movies, the first in more than a year, and the 3D IMAX theatres entertained them with Happy Feet! We were shocked paying 33 New Zealand dollars for the two tickets!

Johan and I needed some alone time, and we found the most beautiful little Korean restaurant, for a romantic dinner celebrating our wonderful journey, and all the birthdays and all the anniversaries that we sailed by!

You won`t believe this. Andando didn`t make a single move, she enjoyed being strapped up, not trying her best to keep everyone safe. And as I was laying in my bed, I just couldn`t fall asleep. There was no movement at all! Andando wasn`t rocking me to sleep! And after a while, I needed the movement, I slowly rocked myself to sleep…

Kawau, New Zealand

2012-01-08T13:13:00.003-05:00

It is just getting more beautiful if it is at all possible. I never knew New Zealand was two big islands with so many little ones, and around every corner a little bay.

We dropped anchor at Kawau Island in front of Mansion House, and with the sun peeping through the clouds and the ducks begging for some around the yacht, we dropped the dinghy to row ashore.

Peter, Joe, Marco, Marlene, Johan

Lunch on Kawau Island (Me, Johan, Carole, Joe and Peter)

Another beautiful walk was waiting for us, and to Marco and Peters` delight, Carole spotted our first wallaby! We enjoyed a light lunch, not the best, but the ice cream was a treat. Too lazy to sail away, we spend the night, ending up having silly bunny fun, and I ended up with a wet cloth in the face! I won`t spoil the fun for next time, sharing the game with you…

Everything comes to an end! Early the next morning our Skipper sailed us to our final destination! Auckland! Andando was safely berthed in Bayswater Marina, her final destination! We did it! When we finally got her lines attached to Mother Earth, we were all overcome by emotions! Peter didn`t help at all, giving us a hug and a thank you, for bringing his boat safely home! It was exacltly 3 months since we left Trinidad and we did a total of 8976 Nautical Miles across the oceans ! What an experience !

Well done Andando !!! Safe in Auckland your home !!!

The worst was when I looked out and saw his mom and dad on the jetty, so glad that we all were safe! I so wished it was mine…

We hugged and kissed as if we were old friends, and Marco enjoyed the present of chocolates and our own All Black Flag!

Joyce, Peter's Mom

Peter's Dad, George, showing Marco tricks

While the men were finishing up at the boat I went searching for food and hot coffee, and Carole found us sweet creamy cappuccino`s at the Marina office. Not even the coffee could keep our Skipper awake, and soon he had a very well deserved rest, after watching over his family on a boat for three months!

Sunset in Auckland - Andando moored in Bayswater Marina

New Year

2012-01-06T02:47:00.005-05:00

I woke up too early by the noise of the engine and the call to lift the anchor…after getting into bed with my clothes on and sleeping into the New Year! We left Russel, and explore the Bay of Islands. Our first stop :

We anchored next at an island called :

and while everyone was sleeping, the boys and I took the dinghy to the beach. We were invited by the white freshly shaven sheep, among the green pastures, and we ran and rolled in the green grass. The boys chased after the sheep, running up and down the hills! It was wonderful to be touched by Earth.

Late that afternoon we lifted the anchor again, and were off to Great Barrier Island, some 80 miles from the Bay of Islands. We decided to sail the night to be there early morning. We passed the dolphins playing among the boats, and were heading for the open water again.

Carole and Joe

Soon we were in strong wind and swells crashing down on Andando, and Johan and Joe were in for a rough night. We were all glad to see the tinge of the sunrise on the horizon, but it didn`t last for long. The day was grey and dark clouds filled the sky, and an ice cold wind was cutting through bone. It felt a little like a wintery day in Cape Town. As soon as we dropped anchor just after 07h00, we went for a warm shower and couldn`t wait to get to bed! But three hours was enough and after a light snack we were off to land. our way to some bay, we anchored at Port Fitzroy for food. After the Quarantine people confiscated a lot of our stuff, we needed a bit. A little shop up the hill gave us chicken and frozen bread, and we were good for another day! The weather was miserable, and although New Zealand is breathtakingly beautiful, she made sure I won`t fall in love with her. She stayed cold and grey and windy…

We had a quick stop at a little camping spot while sailing to other anchorages, and the women were doing the washing. Just look at the tumble dryers! When is the last time you saw one?

We walked the most beautiful forest, enjoying the kauri trees towering above us. We spotted the Tui bird fluffing its feathers and giving its cry. We saw the old catching dams which they build to transport the huge kauri logs. The fern trees, silver ferns and many more greens were enveloping us in this forest. We enjoyed the hanging bridges and walked and climbed about 10 km. It was a good introduction into the real world again…soft. Our muscles were aching after almost three months, but it was such a good ache!

Peter

Early the next morning after a night of playing cards with Peter and Carole, we were on our sailing way again. The wind died down and the sea was flat, and we sailed to Kawau. The sailing scenery is spectacular, and hundreds of sailing boats, motor boats, big and small are sailing around. Living in NZ, is not possible without a boat!

Sailing Video - Tonga to New Zealand

2012-01-05T15:42:00.001-05:00

Opua, New Zealand

2012-01-04T17:37:00.008-05:00

Opua Marina.

We set foot on land! Around seven we stepped off Andando, and we fastened her lines, and it was as if she let her guard down a bit. Quite emotional we hugged each other, knowing that we did this, we sailed Andando across the Pacific to her rightful and proud owner, Peter Windsor! We had a very good sail from Tonga and did the 1000 odd miles at an average speed of 6.5 knots.

Peter Windsor

Still waking up way to early, after a night of no night watch, no listening to unusual sounds, no looking at the dark clouds bringing strong winds, no rolling around in a boat, I felt a tiny bit of energy seeping through my veins. But believe me, just a tiny bit.

Customs arrived around 10h00 on another grey day in Opua, New Zealand. We were tied up to the very yellow quarantine dock, only allowed to walk about 30 meters on a jetty, tightly locked away from anything and any one…leapers in a foreign country! The first unfriendly blonde came aboard, accompanied by a grandpa friendly elderly man. She inspected the boat papers and passports, and he entertained me, or did I entertain him, looking for incriminating food on Andando! He searched the fridge and freezer, for any meats and fruits and veggies and dairy products. And he asked me a couple of times for any seeds or beans .There will be a new species growing in their coastal waters soon with all the Brazilian beans I chucked away. Interestingly enough he allowed me to keep my products like milk and cereals and rice if it was from France or New Zealand.

We needed to fill up our water tanks, while little Marco was searching all the yachts for Liza and Adrian`s Two Ticks. And he found it! But they weren`t aboard.

Yacht Two Tics left in background

We had to leave for Russel to pick up Peter`s friend, Carole, and we knew we are going to miss them.

While tying up to the water jetty, an umbrella was running and waving towards us! It was the small figure of Liza, and Adrian grabbing our lines! At last! So far away from all our people and we hugged and kissed each other like family! They left South-Africa a month before us, two young married people, and we never thought we`ll see each other again, and here we were hugging with watery eyes…

We said good bye after a short visit while the tanks were filling up, and we left for Russel for New Years! Slowly but surely Peter is trying his hand to Andando, learning her moods, her swings, her joys! Peter wanted to show us a piece of North Island (Bay of Islands, Great Barrier Island etc) on our way down to Auckland the next few days, all the bays and anchorages, and at first I couldn`t think of me sailing any more, but he and the beauty of the islands soon won me over.

Adrian and Liza promised to try and follow, and soon after anchoring, and walking this quaint little town, they found us at the Supermarket, buying peaches and apricots and a large packet of chips and I hugged a bottle of red wine for my New Year.

Marco and I squeezed in a quick visit to the museum looking at the stuffed kiwi and Captain Cook`s little wooden boat, Endeavour. He sailed these waters three times on the lookout for Australia, only to find New Zealand. And I took a photo of the huge black pots, and we smiled about having a little ‘potjiekos’ soon. We still need to taste John's Oros Recipe Potjie from Yact of Africa one day !!! What or who was cooked in those two pots the last time?

We ended spending New Years on Andando, after sharing a beer in a restaurant.

I was feeding on the female company, and I realized how much I missed it to talk about hair and nails! To you all, live life in 2012!

Liza and Adrian (Yacht Two Ticks)

Marco, Carole and Peter

Our last day

2012-01-03T22:04:00.001-05:00

We were all exhausted after a rough night, and we tried to take a nap here and there, but we were too excited and our eyes kept searching the horizon for land. It was a grey day, and the visibility was poor and it was as if New Zealand didn`t want to share her beauty with us yet! Marco and Peter played chess and cards to keep them busy, and Johan and I started emptying the freezer and fridge to see what else we have to eat before the quarantine people come aboard to confiscate it all. For the past three days we were giving it a good go, eating all the meats and dairy and beans and all the green stuff! The boys were happy to get the two cans of condensed milk!

The wind dropped a bit, but we were still doing very well. We radioed Maritime NZ about our arrival, and we hope to sail into Opua around seven o clock, just after sun set.

Peter was keen on losing a bit of pre-X-mas indulgence, but he definitely joined the wrong crew!

Andando is performing!

2012-01-03T21:25:00.002-05:00

Fantastic weather for sailors in a hurry!

Slowly the wind started to pick up, and slowly the swells were growing! Somewhere we lost the wind anemometer ontop of the mast in windgusts up to 35 knots, not a very good reflection on Sparcraft in Cape Town, and now it was only the South-African flag showing us the strength and direction. We sailed with the main and genoa, and reefed down every now and then. For two days we had swells up to 3 meters crashing down on Andando, leaving her with a salty crust. But we didn`t complain, the sailing was the best! The miles were shrinking every day, and we were nearing the end. The nights were so cold, we were freezing, and we layered up. I left our sailing gear on Catlyn, and only packed old jackets to throw away on the other side. I only packed our really worn shorts and t-shirt, to hopefully shop some new decent ones in New Zealand. So after I borrowed a pair of thick socks from Peter, I was dressed for my night shifts!

The sailing got even better. The last two days the swells grew up to a monstrous blue 5 meters! They topped the bimini of Andando, and we couldn`t believe the force of this water pushing us forward, and Andando just politely lifting her ‘derriere’. With the wind reaching speed of 25/30 knots we never felt unsafe. Our top speed was 16,5knots! Johan sailed between 9knots and 13 knots since midnight, our last night. Someone was in a hurry to get this almost three month long journey, short of 4 days, over and done with!

A fantastic sunset painted by the wind...

Tonga to New Zealand

2012-01-03T10:03:00.005-05:00

It was the Friday afternoon, and our Skipper started getting anxious to go. The weather forecasts didn`t look great, but he just had this feeling that it was time! We hid the streets to do our last bit of Christmas shopping- earphones for the boys, flip flops for the three of us who lost ours to someone in Tahiti, lego`s for Marco and chocolate treats for the rest of us! We found a supermarket which opened a couple of hours earlier, and the people from Tonga were delighted with their first proper supermarket on the island. Among the boxes filled with tinsel, stars and glitter balls, I saw two women, and I heard them speaking Afrikaans! I followed them circling the boxes, just listening to their voices, and when they turned around to leave, I patted the one lady on the shoulder. I greeted her in our language, and she turned around and hugged me and held me as if…. Zetty and her friend with the husband with the airplanes in Tonga emigrated from S.A some years ago, leaving for New Zealand. Zetty and her family ended up in Tonga three years ago, and loves it! I wanted to know how she copes without seeing her loved ones for so long, because I don`t. I wanted to know whether she left a dog behind, and she did! And we were sharing our tears on each shoulder, not making it any better…so far away from just a hug!

But it was time, and we freed the mooring lines. We waved good bye to people we don`t know

It was Friday, and by now, you know that I am super superstitious when it comes to boats….and the crew refused to leave on the journey! Our Skipper knew that he has to keep his crew happy for this last leg to Auckland, NZ. We only sailed to a nearby island, dropped the anchor and enjoyed a drink with Peter on the fore deck!

Midnight struck, and Johan woke us all to lift the anchor! It was Saturday, the 24th of December 2010, and we sailed off. The excitement kept us awake, as well as the choppy seas. Christmas was spent eating the seafood Johan bought on the fish market, laying among the big fish and clams and even a couple of eels.

Andando was rolling around and so was the lemon meringue I tried to bake in the oven. But even through the glass door of the oven we could see the yellow swirling from side to side. Luckily on a boat, even a ‘liquidy’ lemon meringue is still the best X-mas pudding.

The wind was ranging between 18 and 20 knots and Andando was having a great time, while Peter tried out all the spots on her, until he found the most comfortable one!

In between Marco and Peter kept each other busy, and us entertained with card tricks and chess!

Peter had Marco under his magic spell for two days, holding onto my poor child`s head to transfer some magic! And after a hard days sailing Peter tried out a new spot!

Tongatapu, Tonga

2011-12-22T16:19:00.006-05:00

We decided to switch of the engines while waiting for the offices on land to open after two, and the silence after six days of sea and engine noise, filled our ears. After a while the constant buzz in our ears subsided, while we were enjoying the gift of lamb we received from the new friends in Raratonga! Succulent! We sailed into the little harbor, with a big man waving us in, and tying us up, with a fish smell filling the air, and flies joining us. That’s life on land, and I knew the mozzies were waiting for me…

An official came aboard, and we paid the dues for Customs, 100 Tonga dollars, and were told to wait for the rest of the officials to come aboard. But we waited in vain, and after a while we left a lazy Peter, who arrived this morning in his hammock! We send Tiny, believe it or not, the taxi driver to the airport with specific welcoming instructions to fetch our Boss! Gonna be weird with a boss aboard… Marco couldn`t wait for Tiny to bring our guest, and eventually he arrived. Andando was delighted meeting him. Tiny asked me to add his name and number to the blog , so if you are in the area, Tinys` Tonga taxi, tours@gmail.com, tel. 8875127.

From Left : Peter, "Tiny" and Joe

After a glass of ice cold water, Marco sat back and told him very politely that we have a certain routine on this boat, and it would be better of him to just slot in and join in our fun! Luckily Peter was amused and promised Marco, to be good, and the nick name was born, Two Taps. So from now on Marco will be called Two Taps, that is what you do when you need a slave. Two taps on the head and he will serve Peter, and hopefully we can get away with it too!

The rest of the day was spent going through Andando with Peter, and he kept on smiling, so that was a good sign. He stayed with the boys, servicing the engines, changing the sail drive oil, while Johan and I went down the road for some shopping. We passed the cemetery, and I had to take photos for you. I thought the graves in the front yards of the houses in Raratonga were unusual. Just imagine waking up every morning, and walking passed the dirt heaps of your ancestors. But the graves in Tonga was amazing. They are Christians, but due to their custom, they wrap the body in a warm blanket in the coffin, and on top of the big heap, they spread the most beautiful spread or blanket. Some were quilts hanged up as well, and some were beautiful crochet spreads. It is done to keep them warm during their stay, and warm for the resurrection. I am trying to find out why I found bottles filled with something….maybe some need something warm on the inside as well…

At the market, I found this women wearing her grass skirt, and she told me that her father passed on two weeks ago, and she is wearing the customary skirt. I love these customs, and I do miss them in our plastic world. Maybe we can start having little traditions in our own families, just to let our memories live on a little while longer…

Sailing to Tonga

2011-12-22T16:10:00.002-05:00

It was already the 13th of December 21, 2011, and we set the sails for Tonga! The stars greeted us , and it helped us to be able to see the choppy swells, rolling us around. But we were glad to be on our way. What started off as a nice wind of 11-14 knots soon died down, and we had to start the engines, to make sure we reach Tonga before the 22nd of December when Peter, Andando`s owner will join us for the rest of the trip to New Zealand!

It was my born day! I wanted to celebrate my birthday on the Big Blue, and Marco woke me with a candle wrapped in a plastic bag to keep it from spilling wax, followed by the singing low voices of my two Joe`s with chocolate cookies and coffee! The day was even better than I wanted, and my daughter and sister in law, send me a satellite phone message! Thanks for remembering…

Marco wanted a X-mas tree, and we started collecting glitzy things to put up on the big golden leaf we found in the Post office in Tahiti. Wherever we saw a big X-mas tree, we took a little piece of glitz for our own. What is X-mas without a tree? Hopefully we can buy a couple of gifts in Tonga!

Johan got his gift, when a marlin took the lure and he played with it until it swam back into the Blue. We lost so many big fish, with our double hooks completely bend open, only to see their black and purple shining bodies playing in the water.

One day the weather just changed. We woke up and the sun had a bright white shimmer to it. The sea looked even more blue, like cobalt. We could see the black cumulus clouds gathering and the rain were soon pouring down. Lightning was playing in the clouds, but luckily never close to us. We wished for the wind to accompany the squalls, but it didn`t last for long before it died down again. To Marco`s delight we travelled in time! It was the 19th of December, and the next day it was the 21st of December 2010! One day in our lives got lost, without us wasting it away by forgetting to live it! Six days later and about 894nm, Tonga islands are visible on the horizon! We can`t wait to shut down the engines, just to put down the constant noise…

Rarotonga, Cook Islands

2011-12-21T09:13:00.006-05:00

Raratonga was laying ahead of us, and we sailed into the little harbor, Avatiu at about 15h30. Johan called the Harbor Master on channel 12, and the gentleman sounded a bit surprised. Indeed, we were the only sailing vessel sailing into the little harbor, and it was obvious that they were busy with construction work in the harbor, and not prepared for yachts. The Harbor Master was the guy waving at us, and we dropped the anchor, and Johan reversed us politely as close as possible to the grey concrete harbor wall . No walk on jetty, but big black tires were waiting for us to clamber on to reach land!

Even the guy from Quarantine with his fumigating canister couldn`t get aboard and handed the canister to Joe to fumigate Andando. The rest of the inspectors and Immigration officials sat us down eventually on a wooden bench in front of Andando .

No air conditioned offices today! After our passports were stamped we walked into town along the beautiful beach with the hibiscus fringing the roads. We found the Internet café to check out the weather, at 9 N$ per hour, but only after this !!!!!!

It wasn`t a peaceful night with the big concrete wall just too close for comfort. We were the talk of the town, and people popped in, or must I say over the wall to say hello . We heard about the bus, which take you around the island clock wise or anti if you like, in a couple of hours. But the boys saw the scooters for rent, and decided that after Customs and Immigration we have to spare three hours or so to see the island. However it was cleaning time on Andando while our Skipper did all the formalities.

I bought my post cards and they were off to my people, and at the offices of the New Zealand Consulate we bumped into a South-African! Afrikaans! It sounded so strange to hear that on the street, coming from another human beings` mouth. It was like a little piece of home, and we clung to that to try and make it longer. She, Marcelle , told us about her life in New Zealand and how she and Deon ended up on this lovely island, and now are expecting their first baby! We made a date to quickly see them after work, just to share a little bit more…

All the formalities were done, the padeye fitting fasten and we rented the two scooters. The two Joe`s international licences expired, but luckily it was no problem. They did a very quick drive up the road with the two bikes and came back unharmed and the guy from Budget was pleased to leave the two scooters in their hands and issued 2 Rarotonga motorbike lisences for them. Well, with the speed limit for scooters and bikes at 40km p/h and cars at 50km p/h I felt safe, and with only 32km to drive around the whole island, I felt only better!

It was great to see this little island with about 13 000 inhabitants, and they are steadily declining. We stopped at the fruit stalls, but didn`t buy the local expensive pine apples at 12NZ$!

The street vendors in South Africa will smile at these prices - R 72 a piece

We went for a quick walk through the “closed” gardens, and found delicious grenadellas waiting for us to munch on them. We did not take the banana bunch with this time....

We found the street where our new South African friends are living, and the wooden fish colored in our flag colors at the entrance,send back a homey warmth.

Deon & Marcelle's street - proudly South Africans

Apparently the lagoon is unbelievably beautiful to snorkel or dive, but we had to settle for a dip in the sea.

Just more than three hours later our final sightseeing stop was the old church with the graves from the 1800`s, and I couldn`t resist taking a picture of the little grave to remember these old graves.

We gave back the scooters minutes before 16h00, catching the office before closing time. We were just in time to buy a little bit of fresh stuff,and the most beautiful potatoes from New Zealand, the first nice ones since we left South-Africa! On our way back to Andando, we said good bye to Raratonga`s Tiki`s smiling upon us.

Marcelle and Deon climbed aboard, and another South-African, Wayne, joined us, diving into the water to reach Andando. We showed them Andando and they could not believe the space and comfort of this beautiful Maverick 400 Catamaran. He is a school teacher in Rarotonga! Looks like our people are on the move! We were invited to a South-African barbeque, but we had to go! They said good bye with a fresh bread and a packet of lamb and delicious sausages…we have to ‘braai’ them somewhere on our journey! We waved them good bye with fresh tuna, the only gift we had.

In the front from left - Deon, Marcelle, Wayne

KIA ORANA…May you live on! It is the greeting in Raratonga, and we waved three people good bye, which only shared our lives for an hour and a bit…

Rarotonga – Cook Islands.

2011-12-13T14:08:00.000-05:00

We slipped into Rarotonga, for a quick needed visit. We noted that the Port side pad eye fitting low on the hull attaching the screetcher cable seems loose. Hopefully we can get some good fresh vegetables, but most important we need to get the weather for the next week. If all goes well we`ll be sailing to Tonga tomorrow, where we are planning to meet Peter, Andando`s owner! But the weather will tell…

Moon Eclipse!

2011-12-13T14:04:00.001-05:00

It is a long time since I was ‘Moon struck!’ Maybe I knew that it would not be a good thing for both of us to put Andando and the male crew under our spell, so I let Her be… She surprised me, ( like we do). No warning in advance to prepare for Her immense beauty to show, (just the way we like to). While I was still sitting staring over the moonlit sea, glistening in millions of diamonds, everything suddenly went dark! She did it! She even surprised me! Slowly the shadow of the Earth crept over Her sleeky creamy body. Tonight I was under Her spell! I watched her, playing with the shadow, letting it flow all over her, enveloping her, darkening her mood. But still she held me mysteriously in her spell, until her glow was a only a deep amber. I sat there in awe with Her…sharing the secrets of being. She slowly took back her color, the creamy white, but she left me under Her spell.

I knew that it wasn`t over. She wouldn`t let this moment in Her existence just pass Her by…not so easy! So She turned the Wind around, She bundled up the Sea, and She blew the Clouds into dark heaps of thunder and blackness, just to keep us under her spell. But she took pity on me, sharing the mood, sharing her feelings and she let the thunder and the black clouds circling us, but not touching us. She was just showing us her immense power…but still her gentleness of sending the white dove of safety to guide us through the storms!

Add caption

Leaving Tahiti

2011-12-13T14:01:00.002-05:00

With Andando`s fuel belly filled up, after waiting so long for the big grey ship before us,

it was already dark, and without our depth sounder we decided to leave early morning to avoid the reefs. We danced the night away with the boys entertaining us on all our favorite love songs ,thinking back a whole twenty four years, a young women in white in the arms of her hero…

But soon the romance was interrupted by reality. We forgot to buy margarine! Not so easy! You don`t just walk across the street to the supermarket, or jump into your car and rush down the street! You lower the dinghy, already stowed away. You row as fast as you can while the drizzle let your hair hang in your face, in hope to find a shop still open after seven! You`ve spend the last Polynesian Franks today, emptying your wallet of foreign currency…so now you hope to find an ATM somewhere on your way down the street, in search for margarine! We reached land, secure the dinghy, and rushed to the Yacht Club, trying to find someone to shove us in the right direction. Hallelujah! If we hurry, we can still reach the shop down the street! So that was exactly what we did. Joe and I started jogging, not feeling the rain drops anymore. Without knowing the time, only that it is dark, we were driven by the knowledge of being without margarine for the whole trip to the Cook Islands or wherever. Suddenly it seemed so important! How can we eat our flap jacks, still hot from the pan without the glistening of the butter… How am I going to make the lasagna, without the margarine thickening the sauce? Panting we reached the shop, and as soon as we stepped inside the sliding doors, we started breathing again after about two kilometers. We found the margarine, a whole tub, 500g for US$8, and slipped a bucket of ice cream in for Dom Pedro`s…I will not tell how much we paid for that! At a slower pace we started walking back, just for me to remember I saw a bread fruit hanging on a tree somewhere close to the road. It is dark, so I can get on Joes` shoulders and reach this delicious fruit. If the branch is hanging over a fence into the street, does that fruit still belong to the people on the other side of the fence? I don`t think so! With a balancing act in progress, a damn dog from somewhere behind the fence knew about this green fruit as well, and needless to say, we left the fruit hanging….and me floating through thin air up the hill to safety! But we had the margarine!

We sailed away the next morning with light wind in the sails. We pass the island Morea on our starboard side.

The lures were out, and we were hoping for some fresh fish. A big fin was chasing our lures, and we were not sure whether we wanted it to take the lure or not! A short while later something big did take our lure, and a piece of our line, and we were still without a fresh fish for the freezer. Soon our Skipper spotted some birds circling, and fish jumping out of the water! We changed course immediately and the chase started! Our lines were out, and it wasn`t long before two skip jack tunas grabbed our lures. We lost the biggest one of the two, but we were good.

With the wind on the nose and the swells on the beam, we were in for a slightly uncomfortable sail. There were squalls all around us all the time, and we had to be on the lookout to take the sails in before one of them hit us!

From THIS....Starboard

To THIS...Port adjusting the sails

and then within a few minutes to THIS.....

Leaving Tahiti

2011-12-06T18:43:00.004-05:00

Gardens @ the Papeete Waterfront

We spend a lot of Monday to get our visas, (3000 P Franks p.p) and Alfred at the office let us off not having to take out a bond as well! For certain countries (South Africa included) you need to obtain the visa before coming to Tahiti.With the flowers in my hair and my South-African smile, he even checked us out, and to top that phoned the Fuel jetty at Marina Taina, to organize our duty free fuel! Running very low on fuel, after leaving Marquesas without being able to get fuel, this was a relief. At remote places like Marquesas, the info you get from the Internet or sailing guides inform you of the availability of fuel, and after you sailed twenty two days, you can land in quite a predicament. There was fuel, but only for the private vehicles of the island who ordered it in advance. We couldn`t get a jerry can filled! Luckily the wind was at our mercy, and we reached Tahiti safely. We don`t want to be stuck somewhere on the Blue in a storm without fuel to feed these two engines. The fuel gods smiled on us, because the duty free prices are good, even better than Tonga and New Zealand!

We left for Marina Taina, breathtaking beautiful. I am so glad they chose this bay for the fuel dock. We passed the airport and beautiful resorts on our way.

We radioed and are scheduled to fill up around 15h00 this afternoon. We took the bus into Papeete, because Joe wanted to buy a traditional Ukulele ghitar…which he found. It was his lucky day, because in the bus he shared a seat with the most beautiful blonde in Tahiti!

On our way back, not knowing the bus routes we chased the busses, to find a pick up corner. While running after a bus, panting we saw it taking off again, and we had to sit and wait for the next one. Two women saw us running in the street, and offered us a lift in their air conditioned car…thanks to angels all around us! We made the final stop at the big Carrefour, which is definitely cheaper than the one in town. I swopped a couple of books at the Marina, but this time I didn`t use their launderette, and we didn`t visit the swimming pool or the lovely restaurant and bar.

The water is a crisp blue, the clearest we`ve seen since we started sailing, and Joe has to dive down to try and fix our depth sounder. Still not working. I don`t know whether it is overgrown by these little creatures, but we can`t sail these waters with all the reefs. The rest of us will be scrubbing her belly while we wait to go to the fuel dock!

Tiana Marina

Ps. We will be leaving this afternoon, starting the journey to Tonga via the Cook Islands !.

Posting from Alfred and Sonja _ Friends made on the journey

2011-12-04T19:18:00.005-05:00

Hi Johan + Family,
This is Alfred, we met last Christmas-time in Lüderitz where I was with Sonja and our 2 white alsation-dogs on the MacGregor 26. We also had drinks together at the jacht-club and on board Catlyn.
We have just checked your blog again and we are absolutely amazed at all your adventures and all the beautiful places that you are visiting. The boys have grown long hair and you all seem to be in a fantastic mood all the time. You are all having such a super time in your life and the boys are mega-lucky to have you as parents. But your blog is abolutely amazing, interesting and enteraining and it seems that Marlene is doing all the writing and she is doing it perfect. Well done all of you, we envy you.
Next weekend is holiday-time again and I will take the dogs to Lüderitz and get the boat ready while Sonja still has to work another week. We can't wait to live on board our "Sweet Life" again or a few weeks. This time we are planing to sail the boat to Walvisbay after New-years-night, let's see how that will be.
Some 2 months ago I was also in Capetown for the Boats-show and enjoyed it immensely. Even the sun was shining for 4-5 days. On the way back I visited Langebaan where I want to do a day skipper course next year, and I had a look at Port Owen and found it beautiful. Unfortunately there was nobody at the yacht-club on a Monday afternoon and I had to go on. But I will sure be there one day with my own boat.
Ok, you all keep on having your super time, we think of you and check you on your blog.
Greetings from Alfred and Sonja

Alfred and Sonja and their beautiful dogs! Thanks...it is true that sailors are the salt of the earth. not because we sniff and swallow and live in salt, but because we care and we share! We remember Luderitz with a softness in a harsh environment...remember too many Jagermeisters, too many games with dice under a cup, and the man with the thumb sniffing tequila in lines..teaching me a lesson. Never again have we found a liquiditive yacht club like Luderitz again in all our miles! share with us your experience with your dogs while sialing to Walvis Bay...we remember two white dogs swimming the swells of the sea...and a women following!

My Birthday Month

2011-12-04T18:57:00.001-05:00

We have started some years ago in our family to spoil someone for the whole of his/hers birthday month....and this month is mine! Since my month December started, every where I go, the three men close to me are stucking flowers in my hair...and in my life!

Exploring the town

2011-12-04T18:04:00.001-05:00

We woke up very early in the capital of Tahiti, Papeete. The excitement of a new place to explore was pumping through our family. Around 7 am we hit the streets in search for the Market, starting at 4 am. I didn`t tell Johan that, otherwise…

Lots of fresh fruit and veggies were sold and fresh fish were displayed. Roasted pork were being chopped up into little cubes and rolled up into brown paper. But the prices of the Supermarket was better than the local market. We enjoyed the Craft and Curious with Marco sticking his head through the big smile of the smelly shark. The statues of the finely carved stone of wood, Tiki`s were Joes` favorite. These are little guardians for the people. I loved the Black Pearl from French Polynesia, known as the Pinctada Margaritifera cumingi. Legend has it that Oro, the God of peace and fertility would use his rainbows to visit Earth. He offered to the oysters` mother of pearl, its iridescence and this gave this pearl amazing spectrum of colors! Luckily my born day is coming up soon, and I saw a couple of little packages slipping into pockets, trying to avoid a Moms` scrutinizing eyes!

The flower market was beautiful! The Rose de Porcelain reminded me of the Protea of S.A. Still the white little flower, the Tiare which I fell in love with because its scent was filled with memories, was still my favorite. My men bought me a string which I wore the whole day, keeping the scent so close and now it is hanging in Andando filling the boat with their brown wilting bodies.

The people are decorated with the most with the most impressing traditional tattoos. Women`s necks and the curve around their ears are painted with the black ink…sensually beautiful! It is done with a fine carved comb, made of bone or tooth and fixed on a wooden stick.

After a great day, filled with new people and new sounds we settled for the steps of a shop, listening to locals entertaing all with their drums and ghitars and singing. So beautiful! And then we went home, for a lovely evening in Tahiti. The rump steak imported from new Zealand was delicious and reminded us of home, with the smoke billowing from the barbeque. How can we be so blessed, being on this world famous island?

All fell asleep, but I battled to settle down. I chatted on FB with my son, trying to stay a part. I filled the bath tub with hot water, and stayed there with my book until my skin wrinkled up, and then I stayed a little bit longer. But all was not well, something was bugging me. Maybe it was the news of my friends` mother being sick, or the news of another friends` father being diagnosed with cancer…. I stayed up, trying to listen to unwanted feet on Andando. After a while I went to bed, where I lied awake for a long time, and when I heard something I got up, circled the boat, and secured the windows… double checking the sliding door…. And then I slept.

Only to wake up the next morning to find our shoes and flip flops missing, and the bosun chair flung along the jetty! Our neighbours wasn`t so lucky. They lost their two bycicles! So much for 24 hours security cameras!

Papeete, Tahiti!

2011-12-04T16:31:00.003-05:00

We sailed into Papeete`s bay and we threw our lines to a bare chested young man! Not a bad start, hey? The lines were filthy and Andando was covered with green and brown slime! Johan and Joe`s hands got sliced up from the little shells growing on the lines – quite a bloody start!

Civilization! It was a strange feeling hearing the traffic, the siren of an ambulance, seeing people mingling in the streets! But the boys were so excited. Joe connected the hose pipe and enjoyed having fresh water to rinse down the grime on Andando`s white deck. Marco connected the 220volt shore power, and the batteries were smiling. We knew that tonight we could burn some lights!

After radioing Port on Channel 12, we sailed into the Bay following the Morea ferry, with the airplanes flying over our heads or mast! They guide us to Customs and Immigrations, but when we got there, we realized that we needed some visas. Without being upset with us for not having, they only informed us to go to the Post Office on Monday, to get the visas, 3000 Polynesian Franks per person, and to return. To fill up fuel, we have to come back on Tuesday for a letter to be able to buy the duty free fuel for 105 P Franks and not the regular price of 155 P Franks. We roamed the streets, looking for something sweet, but decided against a Magnum for almost 4 Euros! I found my post cards for my dear ones, and Joe got lost somewhere in the shop behind a calendar! After waiting a long time for him, still busy studying the months of the year, we realized that he was enjoying the flowers, and only the flowers, in the Tahiti girls` hair!

We found a supermarket (Carrefour) and bought some necessities. It is still very expensive, and our poor South-African Rands are stretched to it`s limits! We fell asleep with the sound of people….

Galapagos - video

2011-12-03T00:59:00.000-05:00

Sorry for sharing this video only now...but our video man seems to be very busy !!!! Haha....

Leaving Marquesas

2011-12-02T22:17:00.004-05:00

We lifted the anchor, getting wet from the soft drizzle coming down. The weather forecast said that we are sailing into strong winds up to 25knots, and swells up to 3.5m, only 6 seconds apart so we knew we were in for a slightly rougher sail. But our Skipper wanted to go, and his good crew was up and setting sails! It wasn`t long before the Forecast came true for a change, and we were rolling in a very choppy ocean. We sailed south west on the leeward side of Tahuata Island and enjoyed the shelter against nature.

I couldn`t resist taking a picture of every sheltered little bay. Hanamoenoa was the first very comfortable bay with white sand, and no village, where we anchored for a while getting into the clear blue water.

We needed to check the depth sounder because it registers the depth on and off and our Skipper thought that it must be interference due to growth underneath the hull. We also tried to scrub Andando down a bit, but the rain started again and we lifted anchor after we cleaned the depth sounder. Johan believes that these little creatures are definitely slowing us down! While the storm was still thundering over our heads with heavy black clouds hanging over the huge mountains, we sailed away in the 20 knot winds, but we kept close to the island. We passed the two bays close to each other, Vaivanui and Vaitahu. I would love to know the meaning of these strange words. Finally we reached Hanatefau,

and decided to spend the night to wait for the storm to subside or to go towards Tahiti in the meantime. We sat on the deck outside with these green giants of earth surrounding us, and we could see the waterfall rushing down the mountain.

After a good nights` rest, we were ready for the sea!

Although the swells were rolling us around, we were doing good speed. We averaged 6,5 knots so far! Maximum speed during a squall was 13,3knots, even with the main and genoa reefed down! The dark nights are still getting to me, and I don`t know why the wind feels stronger and the swells even bigger when it is so dark. My shift is still between 01h00 and 4h00, but I love to stay `till about 04h30 just to be thankful to see the glimmer of the promise of a new Sun! Our supplies are thinning, and we are all craving some fresh fruit and vegetables. The stocking up in Atuona was not very successful and we could not get any diesel either. We see the bowl of fresh fruit on a table or the salad on a plate every time we watch a movie… Why do they advertise these tropical islands with fruit cocktails and watermelons? Luckily we are still feasting on the big tuna we caught, and are hoping to catch a white fish soon. This morning a very big Dorado took our lure, but while Johan was trawling it in, he lost it. The hook was snapped off completely! Maybe it would have been a little bit too big for us.

Our spirits are still high, thanks to Marco, coming up with magic tricks or a dress-up dance! With the squalls coming down we fill up our drinking water. We succeeded to fill up 15 liters with one wash down! Even Andando is cleaned every now and then, washing down the salt. The swells wash over her, and for the first time swells are breaking over her aft deck! But boy, I do respect this boat! With these swells towering over us, she just lifts her bum and surfs them, and not once did I feel scared of her letting us down.

We reached the northern part of the Tuomotus Archipelago and I so wish we had the time to sneak into the atolls. Manihi was the first one we passed, and it is so amazing to see these sea filled atolls with palm trees.

All of them are only as high as the tallest palm tree. Nothing stands above 14-18meters above sea level! Carefully we sailed passed the Tuamotu Archipelago, leaving them behind. But we were anxious to get to Papeete, Tahiti! As the sun set with its golden threads weaving through the clouds, if all goes well we will be sailing into Papeete, tomorrow during the morning! I just wonder how many pictures of the unforgettable sun sets we witness every day, are allowed on our blog?

Please don`t forget to look out of the windscreen of your car, or the office window or while cooking your dinner for your family….and share the Sun with us!

Leaving for Tahiti!

2011-11-26T11:38:00.002-05:00

ok...we had to jog to town...and only then did we bum a lift...and we got washed down in the dinghy!!

We are getting ready to leave for Tahiti, Papeete. I refused to leave yesterday on the Friday, you know, I am
super superstitious about starting a journey on a Friday...

Johan is outside fixing our main sail, where the fitting broke lose, because it looks like we going to need our main sail in the strong winds ahead. If we can trust the weatherman, it is going to be a slightly tougher sail than the one before! But we'll see and we'll sail...It is raining alot and according to the local people it is quit extraordinary.

We had guests over last night for drinks and snacks, and they sailed this area for four years, and we got the best route from them, so now it is up to Andando, the Big Blue and the Wind!

Andando's turn

2011-11-26T09:10:00.002-05:00

With our tummies full of fresh baguettes and lovely cheese, and the memory of the chocolate soft serve ice cream still cold,

we were refreshed and ready for a hard days` work on Andando! The boys borrowed jerry cans from the other boats and started the water run. With our dinghy with no engine and only the two horse power of the oars, the boys set rowing to fill up the 700l in Andando`s tummy.

Johan serviced both engines, and started scrubbing the aft deck. With fresh water, we took the opportunity to abuse it! Not to the boys knowledge of course, but as soon as they empty a can, I fill up a basin and scrubbed Andando`s inside. It took us the whole day to get her feeling good again, after being covered in salt for so long. But a big job is laying ahead of us. Andando`s hull is disgusting! After sailing with Catlyn for two years, I`ve never seen growth like this! Not only is her green beard growing, but these funny looking creatures are stucked to her! I hope we can anchor and dive sometime in the future for a proper rub and scrub. As soon as we reach clear water we can try and get rid of some of our guests, but I would like to really tickle her belly!

After a hard days` work, our energy levels were still so high, and Marco got us into playing Charades! He won the price with his fish, and Joe gave a new meaning to Ice Age…

Ps. I know that some of our friends in SA planned to sail away over the Blue soon…Allan and Ursula with Windward, and Bert and Michelle. Tell us about your plans!

Marquesas - Hiva Oa.

2011-11-25T16:21:00.006-05:00

Twenty two days later, 3126 nm from Galapagos, we set foot on land! Everything was moving except the boat and the sea! Our legs were heavy and wobbly getting off at the jetty with our black bag of garbage for three weeks and a bit. But it was so good to smell the ground, the crushed leaves and green from earth, that we soon forgot our bodies. I woke up this morning, in awe with being alive…with the cacophony of roosters, the sweetest sound in a very long time. Last night around seven we set anchor in this quaint little bay, Baia Tahauku in about 3 to 7 meters of peaceful waters, among the towering volcanic mountains. The wonder of seeing these huge mountains in the middle of an ocean, pushing up from deep down is amazing. We broke the last of the delicious bread our Skipper baked the morning with my last sip of red wine from Trinidad.

In desperate need for fresh green stuff, we couldn`t wait to explore the little town, Atuana.

We crossed a little stream coming from the mountains to the sea, and up the hill and around the mountain for about 2km. The exercise was so good...

Andando was laying safely resting in the Bay among two other yachts.

We found about three little shops, a post office, a bank and friendly French people around. Johan bought a couple of pineapples, tomatoes and a cabbage out of the back of a truck for a lot of money,

and we found some proviand in one of the shops. Eggs were the most expensive yet…R50 (5 Euros) per dozen! No scrambled eggs aboard,boys! Luckily we still have enough condensed milk left, which we bought in Trinidad for R8 (1 USD) a tin, because over here it costs R28 (4 USD)! I was spoilt again with someone doing my washing. I send in only the really important goods, like the bedding, and I paid 50US$ for only 10kg! When I received it back, half of it was still damp, and we had to put up washing lines in the saloon, with the rain falling outside! No freshly smelling washing hot from the tumble drier. But at least I think she will be able to afford a tumble dryer with my 10kg!

Living Andando

2011-11-25T15:58:00.001-05:00

Andando, also a Maverick 40ft catamaran, is our water home for almost two months now! It took us a short while to get use to the small interior changes on her compared to Catlyn. The height of a door entrance is slightly lower, and Johan keeps on bumping his head. I keep on pulling at a door to free it from its magnet, only to realize that it is kept by two little screws in the wall. Looking for the light switch only to find it at another place etc.

I enjoy the spacious saloon, and our family social around the table a lot of the time. Andando's saloon area is bigger than Catlyns while the kitchen(galley) area is smaller. I am getting used to the different lay out of the galley, and I can imagine cooking up a storm with a nice stove, and not our little temporally gas burner.

We enjoy the bat car system of the main sail. It took us some time to get use to the genoa, but by now she is flying in the wind. We still enjoy the screecher the most, and in these light winds nothing beats her. Our Skipper enjoy the 2 bigger Yanmar engines the most on Andando.

I will not do a crossing without a water maker (if I had a choice)! I really miss our Little Wonder Water Maker! Although we use our water very sparingly, about 700 liters for 4 people for 22 days. We used about 30 liters a day, cleaning, washing clothes and rinsing dishes. Not bad at all! But I will do a lot of things for a long hot shower. I keep on thinking about our Little Wonder. It is able to make about 28 litres of water in an hour! With the 1000 liters in the tanks and the Little Wonder around…life will just be so much cleaner!

My only concern still is the two electrical toilets. I do get anxious, and I listen to every noise slurping and chopping coming from these two monsters…I still think it is a good back-up to have one manual toilet.

Ps. I do miss my green garden which I left on Catlyn. Hopefully my little basil, my avocado tree and my coco palm and my pineapple flower are surviving. If anyone is still out there close to Peakes in Trinidad, please go give Catlyn a huggy.

2011-11-24T08:37:00.005-05:00

What do we do at sea?

Watching the sunrise's over the Pasific

It is our nineteenth day at sea, the longest that we`ve ever been at sea without seeing land. Previously, we sailed 18 days from St. Helena to Salvador, Brasil. We are all so good.

We read a lot.....

We think a lot.....

I swopped a lot of books at Panama, and we have our two e-book readers we ordered from Amazon just before we left Trinidad, full of a lot to read. We watch movies on the TV, and enjoy the old series, ` Friends` the most. Johan still make the best food aboard, so even though our supplies are thinning, we eat like spoiled sailors.

We eat alot....

Pizza

Tuna Steaks with Tramezzini's

Chicken Stew with veggies - South African Malay sauce Elize brought us with a visit from London, bought in London.

Make sure you try the recipe of the `Mosbolletjies`. To my French friends, it is really easy and delicious bread kind of recipe.

I still do spend a lot of time cleaning, with a little bit of fresh water, and I have to sweep the floors every day. It is just amazing how the dust from somewhere, maybe our clothes and sheets, and the human hairs and the scraps from all Marco`s improvised toys just dirty the boat. One morning we woke up with stuffy noses and a black dust covering Andando`s deck! We were 1500nm away from the closest land. Is it possible for the polluted air to travel all this way? and yes the Mom's duty of cutting little ones hair...

Marco still has a lot of fun aboard. Of course he can`t do his exams this last term, but with the years` work done, Brainline ( home school program from South Africa) will use his 3 previous terms. I didn`t bother to concentrate on old work anymore and started stimulating him with new Mathematic problems, like Algebra. His Dad is doing Computer Studies with him, and today he is learning to make a spread sheet! He is forced to be creative with only his Nintendo and a packet of small plastic army figures aboard. He collected the cans of empty cold drinks, and made a town for his soldiers. For days it kept him busy. He cut up a piece of card board, I covered the shelves with, into a sword.

Getting his Dad involved and then his brother, the most beautiful sword was created! Apparently there is a piece left for a shield. Even empty plastic 5lt water bottles became toys! Marco and Joe had their bottle fight in the sun set. Everything aboard Andando is a potential toy!

Joe doesn`t miss a sunset, and in his yoga position he sits on the front deck every evening. He does his Karate kata`s, balancing while Andando moves around in the swells.

He made a kite from scraps on the boat, and soon our whole family was excitedly gathering outside, trying to fly it over the ocean.

He is the one washing down the deck, cleaning our barbeque, and checking the oil.

And we play cards! And we lose every time! Marco and his Dad is a formidable team!

Watching the sunset's in the Pasific

On our sailing way to Marquesas.

2011-11-23T22:15:00.001-05:00

We started lifting the anchor during the morning, but soon realized that the big tourist boat in front of us, was laying over our anchor. We got too close to the big boat, and called out to someone on it to move it slightly out of the way. Their Skipper was not on the boat and the only help we got was from a crew member pushing the boat with their dinghy sideways. After a couple of close encounters, we freed our anchor and were on our way. I had a good feeling that this trip was going to be a better one!

With a lovely wind on the beam, for a change and a current pushing us, we did a beautiful 174nm for our first day! Our spirits were high, and not even the ice cold wind at night could dampen it. The days were sunny, but still the cold wind prevailed. We saw two whales playing in the distance and some Pacific spotted dolphins enjoying the surf. Soon we caught a skip jack tuna. It must be this cold water!

We were not prepared for the cold nights, and everyone was huddling together for some warmth. It is unbelievable that we can be on the Equator and it is so cold!
Our fifth day at sea, we saw a fishing boat on the horizon, and by now the sea life also died down. We hardly see any birds, only the odd swallow with a dash of white on its tail, and every now and then some flying fish. Even the phosphor in the waves at night disappear, while the thick fog envelopes Andando every night. We wipe her down in the mornings with the fresh water from the fog, trying to get rid of the white salty crystals covering her. With the swells slightly smaller and the wind down @ 4 to 6 knots we decided to start cleaning all the stainless steel. We rubbed it with our vinegar cloths and brushes and soon all the stanchions were rust free!

Soon we realized that the closer we sail to the Equator the stronger the current. It ranges from 2 to 3 knots! In the light wind Andando needed a motor running most of the time @ 1200 rpm to reach our planned average of 5.8 knots per hour for the trip, with her screecher sail out. Johan also took out the storm jib, and they fixed it onto the boom, creating even more wind onto the screecher. Now I just need to hang out Marco`s boxers and we will be surfing.

It was our Skipper`s born day, 12th of November 18, 2011! What a challenge to make a day special for someone in the middle of the Big Blue. I baked a cappuccino cake the previous day, and icing the cake with milo and icing sugar, (no cocoa aboard) and one of Marco`s 11 year old candles, and four left over silver balloons. We woke him with our deep voices, and a poem from mom, a letter from Joe, and some secret message from Marco. I succeeded in hiding a Toblerone from the boys, and being without chocolates and sweeties for two weeks now, it was a big present!

I think his biggest gift was when our satellite phone rang for the first time ever, and his sister, Elize wished him a happy birthday from London!

Ps. Jaco our son left South-Africa to work in Palm Beach, Florida, and I missed packing something special into his bags. Good Luck Jaco, see you soon !!!

Last post for Galapagos

2011-11-23T21:36:00.001-05:00

Isn`t it amazing how much you can do, if you have a limit of time? Why do we waste so much? Before I get carried away… We had only one day before we sailed away to Marquesas, Marco`s born day at Galapagos, and we loved it so much! With the diesel and water filled

and my 25kg of washing done for me, we were in the little town looking for a place we can create a memory. With a couple of choices, we went to one of the back streets, and found a place with wooden tables and yellow table cloths. Local people were already enjoying their lunch. This was going to be it! I noticed that we were the only Gringoes, and I also noticed the same juice on all the tables with a white plate with the same food, rice and chicken. A black board stood at the entrance with the three wooden steps, and written on it, 6$ and the word, `pollo` which I knew is chicken in Spanish! As soon as we sat down at the yellow table cloth, I just caught a glimpse of the black board vanishing into the back door of the restaurant.

We ordered four of the meals on the black board, not understanding the rest of the Spanish, but the guy with the pin stripe moustache said ,`Sorry, the special is finished.` And it is back to the menu, with 9$ a dish. In broken Spanish sign language I showed him all the other peoples` juice and plates, and politely gave him back his menu. Getting my family from their wooden chairs, we will be on our way! With business on its way out, he very quickly told us that he is just going to find out, maybe… Soon we were having what the people were having, for 6$ and so were a lot of new local guests arriving!

Popcorn and soup was our entrée! From now on that will be the way we eat our soup… After the delicious rice and chicken with a touch of salad, we enjoyed a pink sweet desert, something like a mousse, and the big glass of orange juice on our yellow table cloths!

The rest of the day we illegally walked into the Nature Park, just following the beaches, where the big Galapagos sea lions were basking in the sun. Marco swam with them, while they play in the water. We saw the iguanas sitting on the black volcanic rocks, the blue footed boobies and grey pelicans looking for something to eat. We ended the day watching the sun go down over Frigate Point, where the statue of Charles Darwin stood etched in the last rays. We knew we had to leave this magical place…

Ps. We were offered an illegal tour to three islands and the Nature Park for 150$, but we didn`t want to risk being in trouble in a faraway country with a language we didn`t understand. Illegal because you need a Park Permit to enter the Park, USD 100 per person when clearing in.

Next Stop - Fatu Hiva, Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia

2011-10-30T13:49:00.000-05:00

We are leaving tomorrow morning at about 5'oclock for our next very long leg towards New Zealand. Fatu Hiva will be our stop for about 2 days before sailing further to Tahiti. Fatu Hiva is about 3000 NM from Galapagos. You can do the sum at say 5,5 Knots average per hour. For the not sailors, that is 3000 divided by 5,5 to get to the total hours it will take us, constant sailing day and night. I do not want to calculate the sum at this stage.....
.

Marco`s born day!

2011-10-30T13:34:00.000-05:00

I love doing what I am doing! It gives me the wonderful opportunity to see my children grow into people with inner strength! We woke him with two candles of one…11…shoved into a cinnamon bun. Dad helped me blowing the 11 silver balloons and searching for plastic bags to wrap all his little gifts. Joe woke up and the three of us, were designing our own special birthday card on scraps of paper. This is something we learnt from Janlie, our daughter studying in Stellenbosch (SA). This tradition we saved.

We woke him with our low voices, and the love in our hearts filled the boat. He loved his new knife his daddy gave him. He loved the key chain with the scorpion, his star sign, his brother gave him. He loved the yo-yo his mommy gave him, and he loved the plastic army figures he bought for himself! He slept in his new sweater from Galapagos. He was feeling so special with little things from earth, and loads of blessings from the world around us. I love him so, for singing happy birthday to himself all day long. If only we all could learn to love ourselves so much…

Another Bird Story

2011-10-30T13:27:00.001-05:00

The night we were battling to reach Wreck Bay, Joe and I tried to take a nap while our Skipper motored us closer to the Bay in the dark of the night. He was so tired, after not really sleeping well for 9 days now, but the universe saw his eyes battling to stay open, saw his shoulders slumping and the great fatigue settling in. So close to the end… Tonight he is going to get lucky! They send the boobies! The white shadow was following him, catching his eye, invading his male space with her clever touch, teasing him into giving up his fatigue and to give her all his attention. The white booby flew next to Andando flirting with the white on the waves, trying to catch a morsel from the sea. And he succumbed to her flirting, and shone the light on her. The beam of the torch revealed her beauty, her softness and her determination. Enchanted...She had him in her spell, hold him... He shone the light on the water, caught the fluorescent eyes of the sea morsel trying to get away from a predator. And then, it was her being caught in his spell. He coaxed her with the light of his torch, forward and backwards, playing her until she understands his game. She dove down, trusting him and his light, and she filled her beak with a little gift from the sea. And she took away his fatigue, his aching muscles and she gave him a sense of being alive again! That was the night our Skipper played with the booby!

Early Morning Wreck Bay, Isla San Cristobal

2011-10-30T13:08:00.002-05:00

I didn`t want to wake up at 06h30, but the anxious agent was at our door step. Big Joseph came aboard with about 5 men, the Port Captain, the Water guy, the Fuel guy, the Fumigation guy…bombarding us with all the regulations and fees for being in this pristine Nature Reserve, protected by the Darwin legacy.

We thought we could stay for 72 hours according to info on Noonsite, but big Joseph assured us about new legislation…only 12 hours to stay without a 100US$ fee per person for the Nature Parks. Thanks to Internet our Skipper quickly studied Law 50, and convinced them that we could stay for 72 hours without paying the Park`s Fee allowing you to stay for 21 days. I wish, but yes, we`ll have to come back!

How can I forget? There was a Laundry guy too, and he left with two big bags, all our sheets will be washed in fresh water! Johan and I took the water taxi, all for 50 USD cents p p to touch land again! Boy, was I sick! I`ll rather be sea sick… Joseph took us to the fresh market and we found good veggies at good prices. Broccoli, cabbage, bag of tomatoes, bag of garlic, radishes for US$1 each per item or bag.

Meat was hanging in the butcheries, and the chicken looked good.

Back at the boat to fetch the boys who was changing the sail drive oil and checking the engines, they dove into the ice cold water to check the rudder and props etc. Johan checked it as best he could while the boys forgot about the rudder and the props and were swimming with the seals and the colorful fish!

Beautiful curious shops greeted us, and I bought the T-shirt. I bought the post cards for all my loved ones somewhere, which I mailed under the big blue boat.

We loved this little island with its Mexican feel many years ago, according to our Skipper, and to me I felt the remoteness of St. Helena I loved. Lots of seals make sure, us humans know this is their island, and they roam the beach road. The Galapagos seals live here, love here, and have their babies… We watched a naughty wet new born baby. Typical he was battling to get away from his mother, away from the sandy beach and the blue water, and into the Big city with the bright lights!

It was Halloween, and we thought we`ll crash a party, so we were dressed up for a change, wearing long pants and our best T-shirts looking for a trick or treat for our birthday boy tomorrow. We met the crew from Konodoo, the Irish couple who came all the way from Australia and are on their way to the Panama!

Galapagos

2011-10-29T14:31:00.002-05:00

Panama City

Wednesday afternoon we left the skyscrapers of Panama City behind us. We avoided the big cargo ships laying waiting for the Panama Canal, and headed for the open sea. It wasn`t going to be an easy sail. Maybe the sea gods read my previous blog, about beating, and they thought maybe I was in need of a little bit more experience, so that is exactly what we got! A lot more! Nine days beating, 1184nm with an average of 130nm per day. But it felt much more. The 800nm to Galapagos increased to 1184nm with the wind up to 20knots on the nose. We did not find any doldrums !!! Andando is a star and with all the beating and heavy wind sailing we are defnitely not sailing the same Andando as the previous crew. But more about that later....

The first day started with two meter swells only 6 seconds apart, washing over Andando`s bow. With the apparent wind meter going up to 25 knots on the nose and a leeway of 40 degrees our Skipper decided to change course and run for shelter the first night at Iles Las Perlas! In the beam of the torch light hundreds of silver fish slithered out of the water running on their tails. What beauty in these islands! We`ll definitely be back! We dropped anchor at Las Coco Island the next day to inspect the sail drive and to fix the reef line stuck somewhere, while the boys went for a stroll with some locals, and we bought a bunch of bananas and fresh oysters for lunch.

We left for Galapagos, but we knew our sail directions still don`t look good! Out of the blue a big grey ship came up behind us.

Warship 46 (American) radioed us with a lot of interrogating questions and we were scrambling around for the documents. When night fell we were still chaperoned by them, feeling safe off the Colombian coast. Just after 9 o`clock the next morning we were boarded by a Coast Guard Team, in their full black kit!

Marco loved every minute with real `SWAT`s` aboard, but I wasn`t impressed with their big freshly polished boots on a very white Andando! I politely asked them to wrap their boots in my perfumed lilac plastic bags.

That really humored the people on the Mother ship. They spend the whole day aboard, and what started as an inspection for the sea worthiness of the vessel, and the inspection of the safety equipment, ended up in them measuring every corner of Andando.I was very patient but after a while making beds and lifting up cushions for them to inspect the water tanks and fuel tanks…I had enough! What were they really looking for? No one checked our flares or our life raft or our life jackets…

We lost a whole day and were battling forward. Marco is doing Maths and caught a beautiful wahoo, and is counting the days to his birthday!

Joe is meditating watching the sun go down every night, reading and eating! Our Skipper, looking forward to the end of this nightmare trip to Galapagos! Me…I am not beaten…yet!

We motored into Galapagos last night around 02h00 in desperate need for a good night sleep! We anchored at Wreck Bay, among loads of big touristy boats and only one mono hull which sailed from Marquesas, on their way to Panama! Boy, do we need to chat with them.

Ps. Just an update on the Yanmar Sail Drive saga. After a`very `long email to Yanmar in America, we received an email the very next day via our SAT phone. They apologise for the misunderstanding and they will replace the complete sail drive asap!

Galapagos

2011-10-18T08:17:00.000-05:00

We are leaving Panama for Galapagos later this afternoon or tomorrow morning very early.

Panama Canal

2011-10-17T14:05:00.004-05:00

If you were sitting with your hot chocolate and your hot blanket, waiting I hope you had a hot memory too, we had one! We were late, very late! We were postponed for hours, but we decided not to complain. It is not like someone pushes her cart in front of you in the line at the Supermarket, when this monstrous Panamax pushes in front of you, it is `no problem!`

Our Advisor arrived at about 15h30 and we started for the first lock. Closer to the lock, we were hooked up with lines to the other yacht, E Capoe (French), an umbilical cord were holding us tight through the birth canal. To me, getting so close to another yacht and then attaching yourself to it, with only the black tires and your own little fenders protecting your crisp white hull against the cement of the mono hull…that was the scariest of the whole canal!

As soon as we approached the canal, the two line handlers ( 90US$ a head) were getting ready. They caught the long lines from the canal guys, attached it to ours to lengthen it, and soon they were feeding the lines while our yachts carried on between the walls.

Andando was doing great, but our Skipper was doing even better, because the advisor only realized that the mono hull we were being attached too, was a whole 14 tons, and every time they got their engines started, Andando was pushed towards the walls! It left us, with our Skipper and Andando in control, piloting the two yachts through the canal. Me, I was happy….great gynecologist in charge!

By the time we reached the third lock, in Gatun Lake it was drizzling a bit, but we were waving at the webcam as if the whole world was watching! Nothing is gonna stop us! By the time we are going through the third lock, we are not so stressed anymore…the walls don`t look so close anymore. The only time the two yachts were fighting a bit, were when the fresh water were pumped into the lock from underneath, from the turbulent force of the water. The line handlers of both the yachts had to release and tighten all the time to keep the boats from the walls.

Exhausted after a whole day of expectation and preparation and about two hours in the canal, we were through and on our way to a buoy! We saw the yellow light and were heading for the `little` buoy! When our pilot suggested that both our yachts, now unattached at last can use the same buoy, I despaired. It was enough having a boat so close all day, I didn`t want to share a buoy, and wonder who is on what side of it all night! We reached the buoy, and it was huge! Joe jumped onto the buoy, secured our lines safely for the night, while I was putting our little gaff away, hoping that no one noticed my bravado!

After our Advisor were picked up by a Pilot boat, we enjoyed a lovely dinner with our line handlers, who were soon sleeping like babies in Marco`s cabin.

The pilot boat loudly awoke us the next morning around 07h30. We met our new Advisor, Roy, and were entertained by his expertise and his humor. E Capoe was heading for us again, with a French Skipper not afraid to speed up to the port side hull of our boat! Scary!! Everything happens slowly in the canal, except that! Anyway, we were heading for the second batch of locks, Pedro Miguel to be the first. The line handlers, Delvis and James were holding and releasing and kept us safe all the way. Maybe it was the good breakfast they shared with us.

It was easier doing this in day light. The walls weren`t so close anymore…

Just before we went into the last lock, Miraflores Locks,

the call came through that the big ship inside the lock broke down! How is that possible? Aren`t they indestructible? But of course, no complaints…

Attached to E Capoe , our Skipper had to control the two boats, while he was having tea! Another 40 minutes later, we entered the locks! A webcam! The three little French children had family somewhere watching, they were jumping up and down! We were bundled in the lock, with a boat in front of us, and a monster behind us!
Maybe the photo will give you an idea how close he was, but remember he was even closer!

The birth process was over, and us, twins were surfing out into the big world, to be separated at last.

Our advisor said good bye, left with a pilot boat, and we motored towards Flamingo Point where we rowed our two line handlers ashore with their long lines and tires. We anchored at Brisas. Andando and us, did the Panama Canal!

Ps. If you want to do the Panama Canal, it is an experience of a life time! But it is a costly affair…you even pay for your Clearing Out document from the Port Captain, 44US$! ( Was supposed to be only 24US$) And of course it is a no receipt affair! Silence is GOLD!!

Maverick 400 - Andando

2011-10-15T12:01:00.000-05:00

Herewith a video of some shots on the Trinidad to Panama trip. The Skipper Notes on the trip will follow Monday.

Time changed!

2011-10-15T09:12:00.000-05:00

Ok, still hang on to your blanket, but you can sit with your hot chocolate at 21h00 (SA time) now, and check out the webcam!

The Panama Transit Dpt send you an email to keep you posted! Efficient, I am telling you!

Panama Canal

2011-10-15T08:20:00.000-05:00

Today at noon our two line handlers will join us, and we will be leaving at 13h00 towards the Canal. We are nervously excited! Eric, our agent assisted us in everything to make sure all the paper work was done, and he made sure that we know exactly what to do. He dropped black tyres wrapped in black plastic, which we reinforced with tape. We bought some rope to fasten onto the tyres, but we will do that as soon as we are on our way. He also provided us with 4 very long lines, which we will use to control Andando in the locks.

I can keep you busy with a lot of wonderful information on the Panama Canal, which was built by the Americans about a hundred years ago. Joe interviewed Eric, our agent and is busy editing a video on the who and the what of the Panama Canal, and it will be available soon.

Follow us today, 16h00 our time, but back home in South-Africa, about 22h00! Come on get your blanket, and share this with us! http://www.pancanal.com/eng/photo/camera-java.html

Yanmar SD20 Saildrive

2011-10-14T18:39:00.005-05:00

I`ll take you back to the beginning of the problems with the port side Saildrive of Catlyn. We started to notice a little bit of salt water in our saildrive oil end November 2009 on our way to Namibia. The oil was not milky but we noticed a difference in the oil when comparing with the star board saildrive. We contacted IMS Yanmar Cape Town who adviced us to monitor the oil closely and agree on my suggestion to change about 600 ml at a time from the top with new oil every 30 hours which we started to do immediately. The 600 ml is about all we managed to suck out with a household hand pump we have aboard.
The rest of our voyage did not show any increase in the salt water and the fact that we replaced the old oil regulary helped a lot. We started using the port engine only for charging the batteries, just to take the work load from the port engine, because we knew we still had a long way ahead of us! However during our Atlantic crossing, close to Salvador Brasil end of March, we noticed an increase and the oil turned milky and as soon as you open the oil cap the oil level is pushed upwards from underneath.. We arrived at Itaparica, Salvador end of March and contacted IMS Yanmar Cape Town again and notified them that we are in Brasil. We were now able to change the oil seals on the saildrive which we (Yanmar CT and me) thought would solve the problem. We beached Catlyn in April 2011, changed the oil seal, we even made a youtube video of the event for future guys to follow, and posted the video during May after editing. Attached below :

You can clearly see in the video that the saildrive is without any external damage that can indicate an accident.
After we changed the oil seal, within a few days the oil was milky again and I thought that maybe I did not change them properly. I contacted IMS Yanmar Cape Town again and they adviced me to beach again and to check the O-ring between the lower casing and upper casing. That meant that I had to order another rubber boot as well as the correct new O-ring from Yanmar in Salvador. We waited almost 6 weeks for the parts. We beached again in June and when removing the rubber boot we noticed a fine hairline crack ( by pure co-incidence) in the lower casing of the saildrive on the port side therof.

New filled oil running down the leg after we replaced the oilseals and made the youtube video, it was then that we realised it is not the oil seals

The scratch marks you see below the crack is above the rubber boot and caused by the rubber boot moving up and down in the water. See photo above to establish the waterline.
It was only then that we started with the Yanmar Guarantee department, on the advice of IMS Yanmar Cape Town. We also started to communicate with Gittens Marine in Trinidad because we planned to haul out the boat to attend to the replacement of the Yanmar SD20 Saildrive. Gittens Marine immediately reported the Guarantee Claim with Yanmar and between us we decided to beach again and sand the hairline crack and fill it with Steel Pratly Patty. So we beached again in August and filled up the crack. When we refilled the Yanmar SD 20 Saildrive, oil was running out somewhere from behind. We realised that the crack was really very deep. We fastened the saildrive with rope unto the deck to prevent the dropping of the lower case, if it might crack any further while sailing to Trinidad. We did not use the engine at any time other than for charging the batteries. We arrived in Trinidad during September and hauled out at Peakes in Chaguaramas as soon as they could accommodate us :

We were out on the hard, and the very efficient Gittens Marine arrived about an hour later to investigate the Yanmar SD20 saildrive, took photos, apparently checked for electrolysis (which we didn`t even think about) and probably a lot more etc. They also came to the conclusion (as we already knew) that no bump or external force created the crack as no marks were on the outside of the Yanmar SD 20 saildrive. Also the Maverick 400 Catamaran is designed that the Yanmar SD20 saildrive is totally protected. He forwarded the photos to the Yanmar Agent who came a week later to take more photos. They fetched the lower leg a couple of days later. We immediately noticed the difference in casting thickness just looking at it. Refer to photo.

Gittens Marine and the agent took the part of the leg with them, with no further word. Today (3 weeks later) I received an email from Gittens Marine which informed me that Yanmar requested the complete Yanmar SD 20 saildrive to be shipped, " on my costs" to there facility in the USA for inspection to determine if it is a casting error or not. If it is, they will refund me the shipping costs. Gittens Marine asked me what they must do. I don`t know...it does not sound fair, I have already all the cost of hauling out and paying the cost on the hard for nearly a month...how many months until they make their decision on my fate ?
We are transiting the Panama Canal tomorrow with a delivery of Andando to New Zealand and I will send an email to IMS Yanmar Cape Town and seek advice. I do get the feeling of being messed around with...my Yanmar Sd 20 saildrive and me. I would like any reader to contact me via my email johan@juralands.com. with any advice or recommendations...even sympathy will do!

Trinidad to Panama (Inbetween)

2011-10-14T03:07:00.001-05:00

My Skipper commanded nicely that I do not write too much, but how can I put eight days to the Panama Canal in only a couple of sentences? So please, don`t miss out on our fun and games, and make sure that you scroll down the page to the last blog you`ve read before, and do the Chinesey thing and read from bottom to top! Also don`t miss out on Joe`s Blog, now that I am talking about Chinese…

Anyway we are still beating for the fourth day and thank goodness will be in Panama soon! To my non-sailor friends and especially my non-aquatic family I will take the time to explain the term, ” beating.” It is exactly what the word says. Like when you throw four cracked eggs in a bowl, and you take the Moulinex Beater, and you don`t put it on full speed, but just one less, and you put the two twirly metal things in the yellow yolk of the eggs and you switch on the beater, and the white and the yellow starts to blend, and it becomes foamy and frothy… That is exactly what it is to beat! The wind is switched on at one less than top speed, right in front of you, and the swells are on the nose, smashing all over the boat, leaving a salty crystal layer, and inside this bowl is the four little eggs, rolled around into a frothy feeling.

And yes, it is such a long time since the moon interfered into my life cycle, that this constant frothy state had to interfere with my biological clock some way or the other. And don`t think my clock is ticking, but something was surely ticking this morning. We are steering clear of each other, trying to create as much as possible space between us four. I decided to grant me the pleasure of a proper shower and not a basin wishy-washy clean. The thick lather of the fresh green apples filled the shower, to replace the fleshy flavor. I stood there enjoying feeling soft and feminine again, but alas… All of a sudden I was drenched from above with a wave full of salt water. Someone didn`t close the hatch properly!! The apples went! The freshly washed washing at my feet were soaked in salt water! The water washed out of the shower and was now running over the floor, down the alley of the master cabin, to fill up a puddle in the corner on the wooden floor, right at the foot of our bed! I am not a screamer, but I yelled! No one bothered, because they knew you can`t fall over board where I was! I didn`t stop this time. I yelled! Eventually Marco peeked around the corner, and when I asked him for an old deck towel, he only replied that, sorry, he can`t find one. I didn`t stop. I yelled! My husband or was it perhaps my Skipper peeked around the corner. ” Sorry, I am busy sending a message via the SAT phone. Can`t you close the hatch yourself?” By now my estrogen was in a knot, and with one heave I got hold of the very tight handles of the hatch, and with no freaking apples in sight anymore, I was swinging from the handles trying to twist and turn them, only to watch my husband turn around, (it wasn`t my Skipper) his feet wet from the seawater return to the SAT phone. I could only sit there, girls, in a salty shower feeling sorry for myself for a little while, before I had to get up, dry up the floor, rinse out the washing and gasp for fresh air again. Ready to beat the rest of the day!

Important note: To all the creators and designers and architects of this lovely boat! You have to put some kind of barrier at the entrance of the door at the heads. It is always wet, and the water is always going to run down the hall way. I know you think with your port side of your brain, but please save the girls from running after the water, and trouble with their Skipper!

Beating? Beats the hell out of me, how they came up with that word! It is like calling up angry spirits from the Sea, giving them permission to beat you up. Three days of great sailing, one day of a nothingness, only to complete the first leg of our journey with the next four days of beating. But this last morning with the beautiful islands ahead of us…Pan Pan Panama! All hell broke loose! Twenty nautical miles still ahead of us to the entrance, and we were faced with a storm pushing us away from the entrance, back into ocean. Thirty knots of wind on the nose, the fog thick around us, water washing down from the heavens and salt water crashing over the bow…Pan Pan Panama! Beats me!

Sailing Andando - Trinidad to Panama (Part 1)

2011-10-13T07:18:00.021-05:00

It was Monday morning, 3^rd of October 2011, and we were ready! I think I was feeling more ready for this crossing than for my own Atlantic crossing. Was it only because I`ve been there before? Was it because I was only allowed a crash course of preparing? I can remember, with Catlyn still brand new and the factory still battling to smooth their first boat out, it took us months to get ready, and then not. It took me months to rent my house, it took me months to say goodbye to my dog… Now I only had two weeks to get Andando ready to go, and Catlyn ready to stay!

Catlyn stored on the hard at Peakes in Trinidad for 3 months

Andando ready to go

Old friends, new friends and almost friends were holding onto our five mooring lines .With lots of warm hugs and a bag of lollipops from Veronique (Yacht Grainedo) they were just as excited to share our moment. Michelle, and Marco`s friends were waving good bye. Earlier we said good bye to Samuel and Correen, (Yacht Ercolausa) and Marco gave his French girlfriend a shy hug with her brother being the good friend. The tall lanky Leon from Yacht Isa bowed to a line, while giving us his time, when we know he is busy helping his sister and her family to buy a boat. Mark and Tania, the sellers of the boat, Yacht Blue Diamond, were still looking after Andando with a careful eye. They were excited about what will be in their new future, and looking forward spending a night in a hotel. Larry and Marlo from Yacht Beatrice, sat on the wall watching us, sharing this moment like Larry shared his precious `boerewors` with Marco. And of course good hearted John was there while Jo-Anne was taking a last photo of us thrilled to be alive! We waved good bye to Martin, the last ex-Andando crew, sitting on Eros, a beautiful charter yacht, polishing her prestine woodwork. Even Joe got a hug from a blonde…

Everybody waving farewell

The emotions were immense. I recalled the day ten months ago, December 2010, in Port Owen, SA when Alan and Urshula waved us good bye on our journey… How would we like to see them again !!!

We have the Big Blue of the Pacific Ocean ahead of us. Our Skipper opened the bottle of Italian champagne. On our own with a prayer in our hearts we blessed Andando, and prayed our family an unforgettable journey!

As soon as we left the protective bay, reality struck in big swells on the beam and squalls all over!

After a night with not a lot of sleep, I stood in the heads, trying to `toothbrush` the foul taste of seasickness out of my mouth, when I looked up into the mirror. My eyes grew wide and big! Right there was a swirling waterspout through the port hole! I stumbled upstairs on unsteady feet to find the rest of the crew gawking at this monster sucking up the water from the sea! The big black clouds and monster were aiming straight towards us! Johan revved up the engines and a little boat tried to get as far away, as it can, from it. It is scary to look at Nature controlling the world,when you are on a little boat on a very big ocean… Hmm, nice introduction to us, on our first day at sea!

We are lucky with fair winds from behind between 10 and 15 knots ESE most of the time, and Andando is sailing like a dream! Our average speed of 6,5 knots with a maximum of 13,5 knots! Very easily she reaches speed of 7 and 8 knots. I do hope Catlyn is going to lose some weight while standing on the hard in Peakes Yard, Trinidad.

No one else is losing weight or planning to lose some, so we were delighted to enjoy the young Dorado for lunch, cooking it the way Annemarie from Wayne (student friends from some time ago) taught us.

It is already four days at sea, and slowly I am feeling alive again. Very dedicated I started with some stretching exercises, and maybe it is enough for today.

The crew are taking strain from very little sleep, but as soon as someone spots some dolphins, their energy just flows through all of us, and we cheer them on to entertain us playing around the bow. Joe is bending and stretching low to take some footage to show you the wonderful world we share with dolphins. Amazing, this little waterproof GOPRO camera he bought.

Thunder and lightning are all around us, giving us a little scare for the past two nights. It is quite a fearful sight when they split open the skies around you, and you know that you have nowhere to hide.

Marco woke up during the night, saw the lightning and still full of sleep, stumbled with his new Nintendo 3DS (birthday present in advance) and popped it in the oven! We can afford to be without a satellite phone or a Garmin handheld, but what are we to do without a Nintendo? That is if lightning struck....

It is already Saturday morning, and when the sun turned the clouds pink in the east The Wind went away. After blowing so nicely for days it decided to take a break. We had to motor the whole day and night. I am sure The Wind was just contemplating on how much He will blow tomorrow? We enjoyed the calm around us....while it last.

Ps. We took our own barbeque with. What is an South African without a barbeque -- no good !!!. Andando is equipped with a lovely barbeque, still safely stacked away in its box. Hopefully our own barbeque will fit in my suitcase...

Our Skipper gave into our begging and we even swam in the blue ocean and Joe used the opportunity to film underwater.

Again as the sun set right in front of us, the lightning started, again all around us. And then The Wind knew what it had to do! “Change to the West, or South-West is best!” We were faced with strong wind between 14 and 20knots, and sailed close haul with the main and the genoa out.

Little migrating birds were seeking a safe place to sleep for the night, and somewhere on the vast ocean this white drifting thing gave them shelter from the night and the wind. Four of them seek safety on Andando, and Marco was the happiest boy at sea! They were so exhausted, just reached the safety of the deck and then the boys took them in their hands, and bring them into the boat, and put them safely in a bowl filled with double ply toilet paper.

Three of them were sleeping soundly for the whole night, but the fourth one was somewhere on the upper deck. We were just hoping that he will also be safe when a big wide winged hawk circled Andando, also looking for a place to rest. He tried out the Simrad Radar ball on the mast, but it was just too slippery and he had to settle for the stanchions. Trying to keep his balance with the wind pumping and the boat rocking, he gave up and circled the boat again. The danbouy has to do. He was balancing with his wings open wide just above our heads on this long pole swinging and swaying in the wind. We were still entranced by this big bird balancing on this pole, when he sped forward right onto the deck! He found the forth little swallow! We sat in awe! We were part of a God catching moment, with a hawk catching moment, with a boys catching swallows moment…

Can somebody please tell us the name of this beautiful bird...we have not seen it ever on the ocean...AND WHILE CATCHING ITS PREY ????

I remember somewhere in the Bible it says something about God looking after the little swallows! With the lightning flashing and smashing all around us, we felt so safe. God is watching over three little swallows on Andando tonight, and I am sure He won`t mind looking over us as well!

Phoebe, stayed with us when the other two swallows flew away when the sun started to tinge the clouds. I started searching the boat for little insects, and regretted sweeping the floors yesterday. She was so hungry, that she pecked the few insects I could find on the deck, from my finger. By now I am sure you gathered that Phoebe is the name Marco gave the one little bird who decided to linger for a while longer. She hopped down the steps to the lower cabins, sitting on the soft bed for a while, having her quiet time, only to fly back to the saloon landing on our laps, our heads or in our lunch. She found a red bean in our stew, and after her tummy was so full she hopped over to the stove, just to sit on the foil and to catch a wink in the gentle heat. She explored everything, the red button on the TV remote fascinated her, or our Skippers` glasses, as soon as he lay down to take a nap. She hopped out to the aft deck, but quickly returned to the warmth of the saloon, and only when Joe sat at the helm, did she fly out to sit on his lap.

We thought we lost her when she flew off to the blue sky, but she circled and flew right back into the saloon just to rest on my knee again. This little creature was loving us, and we were loving her right back. But late afternoon she gave two shrill chirps, went to sit on each one of our heads, and then she took to the blue sky. We hoped that she would come back, just like the time when she went out to say hallo to another swallow, but this time she really left to carry on with her journey.

I don`t have to tell you that we were sad, and every time we saw a swallow, we hoped… But Phoebe went on her way, but she told all the other swallows she met, about us, and it is a new day today, and already three little swallows are all over the boat, eating our leftovers from breakfast…

Two days later and Andando became the shelter for the homeless! She is sheltering four free spirits, taking them on an unforgettable voyage, creating a memory forever. She sheltered 14 little birds up to date. They flew in and out of the saloon, shared our breakfast or lunch, and sipped the spilled (on purpose) water on the kitchen top. Some stay for a while and some are even sleeping over on the drying rack, just to leave us again, with their little wings flapping around us in a farewell.

Good bye, au revoir, totsiens, chiao, sala gabotse!!!!

2011-10-03T12:02:00.001-05:00

We are ready!!! We will be leaving shortly! Catlyn is ok to stay... and Andando is already pulling on her mooring lines! We did the 2 hour complicated custom thing. It is not so easy to come in on one boat and to leave on another, only to fly back to one again. And then it is not so easy to swop and change and inter change crew and Skippers, but two hours later we are official Andando crew and on our way to a very excited Peter ( the owner) on the other side of the Pacific.

We took the opportunity to stock up on duty free alcohol, so there goes my good intentions of loosing a little bit of this good life softness.

I don`t have time to chat any longer...so I'll keep you dated with all our stories as soon as the Internet is with me...

May you be blessed...

So blessed...

2011-10-01T19:47:00.003-05:00

Tonight we had our first dinner at Andandos` saloon table! We had a delicious take away pizza from Joe`s Restaurant in Coral Cove. Andando is starting to feel and to smell familiar now. We cleaned her spotless, and made notes of all the small paint and gel coat repairs which have to be done in New Zealand. Marco cleaned the engine rooms today and Joe went up the mast with the silicone can, spraying the sliding track of the main sheet traveller and checked all the halyards and shackles.

Yesterday Marco painted the tops protecting the tables and counter tops with a black enamel paint, and it made a huge difference. Now I can wipe them clean with a cloth. The previous crew did not adjust and set the flame burners of the temporary gas stove and I do not have to tell you what long yellow flames leaves underneath a pot and what a soot bottom pot is doing to wherever you put it down. The burners are adjusted and the flames are short and blue, no soot anymore on Andando.

The last remaining previous crew member moved to the locker on the bow, and his sleeping bag on the trampoline, and I think we would have to check the boat thoroughly before departure for any `illegal` crew! I am sure now that Andando is so beautiful, he must regret not finishing the journey with the previous Skipper. But we are so thankful for all the previous players in this saga, for leaving Andando here in Trinidad, and giving us this amazing opportunity. Blessed are we...

Last night we enjoyed a barbeque with a lot of friends, having lamb chops on the fire, imported by Hi Lo stores here in Trinidad from New Zealand. Marco was spoilt with a piece of `boerewors`, Larry from Yacht Beatrice shared with him. A lady by the surname, Van Tonder in Grenada makes her own `boerewors` to sell. I smelled it and I could smell the pepper and coriander and I could see Marco savouring every bite, with his eyes closed.

This morning Dave, the American came for coffee. Joe and I met him last night at the barbeque and when we heard that he sailed through the Panama before, we decided that this is someone we have to get to our Skipper. `Till now everyone we met is just talking and speculating about the Panama, we couldn't find someone who actually did it! And here he was,only two days before we are planning to go. He left us after a couple of coffees and with valuable information.

Tomorrow is Carlyn's turn!

She needs to be washed down and to be polished all over outside. And inside I need to clean her thoroughly and store everything so that nothing gets mouldy. I am going to take advantage of Peak's huge 6kg industrial washing machines to wash everything I can for a clean start.

Andando has two empty holes staring at me for a dishwasher and a washing machine to be fitted in New Zealand. Blessed?

Moving onto Andando tomorrow.

2011-09-29T23:39:00.003-05:00

It is time! I have been so excited just like a little girl holding her daddys` hand on her way to the Zoo. But tonight I am up, and can`t sleep, because when I look at the big entrance of the Zoo with the posters of animals all over, my tummy is turning and ending in a knot! But I am a big girl now, and I am still holding my Daddys` hand and I know that I am going to love the Zoo.

We borrowed jerry cans to fill up diesel, and we hired a car, and we drove to the fuel station to buy the diesel for so cheap. We sniffed diesel all the way there and back, doing three trips already. Don`t think I am complaining, although I prefer the smell of petrol to diesel...
Marco and Joe are sleeping on Andando again tonight, rolling around last night on the plastic covers on the matresses. So tonight I covered the matresses with a nice protective cover for a soundless sleep. Martin, the last remaining previous crew member is moving off tomorrow morning, so Andando will be fully occupied tomorrow by our family!

Catlyn is still a handfull, making sure we will not forget her in the next couple of months. I washed her top deck yesterday and gave her a good layer of polish. The rest of her still has to be done before Monday. It will be easier for me to clean and store her in a good way as soon as we moved onto Andando. I`ve already took out the dehumidifier to keep her dry, and I can just recall the stuffy boat we had in Langebaan (SA) during winter.

Yacht Island Khaya, from SA, and now laying in the beautiful Store Bay, asked us about our sick engine.. We are still waiting for Yanmar Holland for a reply, after Yanmar Trinidad took so many photos and eventually they took the whole sail drive with as well. I am sure they can replace everything without us being aboard, but we will be staying for a week or so to do our antifouling as soon as we are back in Trinidad. My Skipper promised to write a complete report on the whole sail drive issue and the outcome as soon as we have news.

Now that I shared my excited nervousness with you, I feel a bit better, and will try to get some sleep ...

Caring for two yachts!

2011-09-28T08:14:00.003-05:00

Busy, busy! It is much nicer living like water people, than it is to live like land people. I am way too close to everything that just occupy my mind and keep my body busy. In the early mornings we spend some time getting Catlyn empty and organised to lock her up for three months or so, and the rest of the day we fill and organise Andando. Inbetween is a walk of about 1,5km with a load as heavy as your arms can hold. I got the solution for catching a ride though. All the time we`ve been walking, but all the cars just drove past. Yesterday with our arms stretching under the load, a man stopped and saved us the walk. I still wonder? Was it my new sexy straw cowboy hat, or was it Johans` very sore gout wobbly knee?

We are planning to sail away on Monday. We catch the taxi to the town, for 5TT$ (R5.00) per person, and real African style, just holding your breath for a while, they drop you somewhere. At first we went to the lovely Waterpark Mall, but we enjoy the town much more with the buzz and flavor of the local people. I bought a new camera, pocket size Kodak Easyshare Sport for 900TT$ because I dropped our very expensive Canon something in Suriname, and I was totally lost without one.

Today we are filling the gas bottles for the long trip. We ordered some big cans for extra diesel and fresh water. The diesel is so cheap over here, we want to fill up and take whatever we can.