Saturday, May 26, 2012

St. Pierre, St. Martinique.

Yacht Ercolausa
We met up with Yacht Ercolausa again,(the French) and they invited the boys to diving with them close by. Joe made a beautiful video to share their experience in the water world with you. A buoy is attached to a mysterious  face sculpture.

This afternoon they are continuing the fun, and they dove down to find a star with its orangey colors. 

 Some more wrecks were waiting for them to explore of ships sunk by the eruption of Mont Pele on 1902.

I couldn`t wait any longer, and after Joe made us some flap jacks we headed for town, leaving Catlyn safely next to a Lagoon 40 and other yachts.

It was the month of May, and to the people of St. Pierre a very important month, because of the angry Mt. Pelee erupting in 1902 on the 8th of May. It was Ascension Day soon and we were in time for the three day festival, with stalls, food and local music!  Johan found some veggies among the second hand stuff and curious everyone was trying to sell.

Baguettes of course! We were in French territory again, and that means the best baguettes for breakfast, lunch and supper! Johan and I enjoyed the walk on the black volcanic sand, stretching our legs.

 In a ditch, with a lot of rubble in it, and fresh water seeping through the pebbles into the sea, my eye caught a bottle! I had to go closer, I had to touch it, and when I picked it up, I fell in love! Where did this come from? Does it have a story?

I looked around to see the owner, only to see a women on a balcony in the house next door, and she smiled at me. I asked her, who it belongs to, and she just shrugged and waved me away with it with a smile, as if it was her gift to me…
Johan didn`t complain, just gently putting it into the bag  and he carried it home for me… 

Nursery school on the beach
We enjoyed the rest of the morning, roaming the streets, touching the black burnt walls still standing, gazing up at the melted trellis on the balconies.

 After death comes life, after life comes death….the two, hand in hand… and in this little town, a dove made her nest in the black death of a wall,

a women built her house only filling the black holes with a blue door, or adding another wall, newly plastered!

On our way to the huge cathedral, Johan found some tomatoes, gold in the Caribbean, on another women`s window sill. 

And the Notre Dame Bon Port Cathedral towered over us.

 It is not in use, and not renovated  to the way it used to be,

 but the bell is still ringing, every quarter and sounding out over town at every hour.  I tried to peek inside, and I could still see the altar, and the colorful lead glass windows…
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The gate to the Bishop`s Palace was left open and I sneaked in, loving the beautiful garden.

Too soon we had to go back to Catlyn, but tomorrow I`ll be back before we lift the anchor again. We spend the evening sipping an Argentinian wine, Santa Anna.

Saying good bye again!
Always saying good bye! It was time to say good bye to Yacht Ercolausa again, sailing our separate seas!

Au Revoir Ercolausa & Crew
I convinced the men to spend another hour or two in my favorite little town. It wasn`t difficult because they knew there was fresh pastries on land again!

 We walked  the ruins of the theatre, built in 1786, then destroyed by a hurricane in 1813, but renovated and restored to its splendor, ready for the Golden Age of theatre!  Another hurricane swept over it in 1891, and the people rebuilt it in 1900!

Two years later it bent it`s knees when Mt. Pelee spilled its anger over it, and today we walked over the burnt marble tiles, touched electrical boxes, melted in the heat, and left behind the women with pain all over her face…

Beside the theatre, where the prison formerly stood, you can see the cell which held the only survivor of the 1902 catastrophe, Cyparis, saved by the thickness of his cell’s walls.

Marco and Johan went shopping, and Joe and I took the opportunity to walk to the cemetery up the hill. Even here the volcano left its mark. And now there is a crisp white angel watching over all…

We were ready to go, picking up a bread fruit for the sea.

It was a reasonable sail down south to Grand Anse D'Arlet Bay (still in Martinique).

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